But if you're going to claim Kingston holds the record for most defective sticks, you should probably back it up with some actual data, rather than just citing your own experience with a single drive—unless you actually want your argument to carry any weight or credibility...
Every print menu has a "print to file" option that spits out a .prn file (or something similar). You just attach it to an email and send it over. The whole idea is that because firmware varies so much, usually only the exact same printer model knows how to actually interpret and print what's in that file.
You can test this out yourself. To send a file like that to a printer, you’d use the command prompt or a DOS window and run the command "copy filename.prn to portname:" where "portname:" is whatever connection the printer is using. For old-school machines, it used to be a parallel port like "lpt:" or "lpt1:", but nowadays it's almost always a USB port, like "USB001:", which acts as the virtual printer port or whatever.
A little respect for someone who’s been helping people out on this forum for nearly seven years wouldn't hurt. And you hit the nail on the head: if you're going to reply to posts, actually read them first.
Otherwise, besides that "report post" button next to your names, I’ve also got those colored warning cards ready if you guys keep up the spamming.😁
Those chipset heatsinks on this motherboard aren't exactly rock solid—they're held on by just two flimsy plastic clips. It’s easy to accidentally nudge one while you're poking around inside the case, which can crack the thermal paste underneath. Maybe take a closer look to see if they feel loose? If they are, you should probably just clean them off and re-apply some fresh paste.
I had one board that absolutely drove me insane until I fixed the passive heatsink like that. See, besides the temperature sensors on your CPU and GPU, there are usually one or more sensors right on the motherboard itself—most often in the chipset, which tends to run a lot hotter.
You can find plenty of stuff online if you just look up issues between your browser and Flash. You'll see tons of people dealing with the exact same headaches, along with advice on how to fix them.
I'm not sure how you're measuring "processor power," but like I said before, having more cores—whether physical or virtual—helps because it lets each browser tab hog its own core. Also, 16GB of RAM or more is absolutely necessary if you want to keep multiple tabs active in fast memory instead of forcing the system to constantly swap them out to the disk drive every time you switch tasks.
Plus, if you enable hardware acceleration for Flash animations in your settings, it taps into the GPU. You really want a dedicated graphics card for that since they use high-speed video memory rather than relying on much slower system RAM.
Too many Flash pages and a slow PC? Nothing new here. You need a processor with more cores—whether they're physical or logical—and way more RAM. Running 64-bit Windows is a given at this point, otherwise, having extra RAM is basically pointless.
Regarding the graphics card, you're only partially right. Some browsers and certain versions of Flash utilize hardware acceleration for specific tasks, so the GPU does play a role. For her setup, she needs to look at maximizing the number of specialized units as well as total memory capacity and bandwidth.
Ultimately, a lot comes down to the software you're running—specifically your browser settings and plugins—plus the actual size and configuration of the Flash animations themselves. You can often tweak those to lower the CPU load.
Running that many Flash pages simultaneously is actually a tougher scenario than hardcore gaming. It takes a hell of a lot of technical know-how and effort to get everything tuned to run smoothly.
If you've got a passion for new tech and you're using it for work, then upgrading is always the better move. But if you aren't exactly thrilled about dropping a few thousand bucks, just throw some more RAM in there, like Ryan Hayes82 suggested, and start optimizing.
How's anyone supposed to know where you're planning to pick up genuine vs. generic ink? And where are you even located? Just check which stores you actually use and look through their supply catalogs...
I can grab the exact same generic ink at $3.25 or even at $6.75 (it's identical!) for my Epson, it just depends on which shop I end up walking into...
It all comes down to signal strength (which, let's be honest, is pretty weak over most of the country anyway), rather than how good the receiver is... some of these sticks are even certified for mobile reception... just not in the States. 😬 Around here, you aren't getting anything without an antenna...
Timothy Kim60 said:computer shut down and Prime crashed +furmark ran both at the same time and the PC died after 5 mins with a weird smell coming from the power supply area. just dropped it off at Best Buy now waiting. LC Power 460W, one month old Q6600, nothing overclocked GTX 550 Ti HDD mentioned the motherboard somewhere earlier. I can't do it again because it's OVER MOBO did I do the right thing? was it the power supply? the fan sped up crazy during those tests
So, a user just reached out to me on Reddit. He had an LC Power GP3 series (meaning the higher quality stuff) 460W unit. Couldn't help himself, so he stress-tested his rig by running Furmark and Prime simultaneously. Result? The PSU fried... even though that exact setup had been running fine for a while.
I'm not saying every GP3 460W is going to die in this situation, but yeah, he just caught a bad break and his unit gave up the ghost. 🙂
This is exactly what we've been saying about LC Power units. They're decent (the GP3 series), but you shouldn't push them too hard. The internal components aren't top-tier, so it's really just a matter of time before something fails under heavy, sustained load. Plus, the PSU itself states the max power on the +12V rails is ONLY 220W, even though it claims 14A and 15A. That amperage isn't actually bad, but it's likely just the maximum peak per rail—because if it were true, the total power should be 348W (12V * 29A = 348W). Instead, the manufacturer declares 220W, which implies about 9A per rail when distributed.
Anyway, his specific unit couldn't handle the torture. And there’s been plenty of talk about Furmark and other component benchmarks being basically pointless "component frying" sessions, since the way Furmark stresses hardware doesn't actually reflect real-world usage.
Cooler Master power supplies don't exactly have a reputation for being top-tier, and when you see "Lite" slapped on the name, it’s a massive red flag... 😁 just like Diet Coke...
Knowing the rated wattage, what it actually delivers, or the warranty length is only half the battle. That unit might run perfectly forever in some basic office rig with integrated graphics or even a low-end discrete card, but you shouldn't push it hard for long periods. It's going to overheat because they used cheap, low-quality components, and heat is the absolute killer of electronics and the number one reason parts fail.
Like I said before, it could run indefinitely on an office PC for a few hours a day... but if you load it up with demanding components? Who knows.
By the way, if you think you've stumbled upon some legendary PSU that's amazing but dirt cheap—and somehow everyone else missed it—😬 go look for a review on a hardware site that actually uses professional testing equipment. If you can't find a single review, it means the power supply was so worthless that nobody even bothered to test it... 😬
Yeah, you could make that work. But the whole point is to plug the mini-receiver into the hub right by your monitor stand. If you just stick the receiver straight into the PC tower, it’s way too far from your keyboard and mouse. You'll end up with a laggy connection and your batteries will die way faster than they should. With an extension cable placed near the desk setup, though? The battery life on the keyboard is insane... honestly, you'll forget when you last even changed them.
You’ve been around this forum long enough to know nobody posts pictures this massive 😬
If everything works right, Logitech is top-tier. Their gear is unbeatable. But you can't split up the set when you're stuck with just one mini-receiver. Both the keyboard and the Logitech MX600 mouse hook onto it...
I usually lean toward NAS drives, but Toshiba keeps popping up here because they really nail the capacity-to-price ratio, especially with those solid 7K3000 drives and the speed they offer... honestly, it makes sense why they call them the "flagship" of the Hitachi lineup...