Jose Ruiz2 said:I saw one on eBay for cheap, but does it actually come with cables or what?
Look, Tesla clearly hasn't mastered wireless power transfer yet, damn it... and since we haven't invented nano-nuclear tech, you're still stuck pulling juice from the wall via a cable. 😁
Why bother hooking it up to a laptop when the laptop already has built-in speakers?
Sure you can connect it to a laptop, provided the damn thing has Bluetooth and supports Bluetooth streaming. You just fire up a player, send the audio over Bluetooth, and you're done. I mentioned smartphones and tablets because they all come standard with Bluetooth and Bluetooth support, but even older phones would work if they had the right tech—like those old Sony Ericsson Walkman phones...
And it's not just about using the speakers; you can plug in some basic wired headphones too. It's the same deal.
Check out where you usually grab your supplies and just ask if they carry generic toner. Honestly, once you figure out which cartridges are the cheapest, that’s how you pick your printer.
If all you really need is a basic printer, a budget Xerox is totally fine. Don't waste money on anything fancy; just get one that hits 18ppm with a USB port and you're good to go. 😁
And if you need an all-in-one, stick with Xerox again—the model over at $333. But seriously, check those toner prices first like I said...
I’m a 16:10 fan too, but man, when those monitors aren't around... my old Dell 20" 1680x1050 still gets the job done just fine, but even thinking about the day I actually have to replace it gives me a headache.
Look, there isn't much of a selection when you're hunting for a 16:10 aspect ratio, and honestly, I'm not even sure if Full HD setups even support that ratio properly...
Look, I’ll be the first to admit it—it’s been ages since I was actually in school, and I haven't touched this kind of technical stuff since my college days (and man, that was a long time ago...). So, go ahead and tear my logic apart: how am I supposed to compare a Seasonic unit that claims 520W on the +12V rail but delivers 40A (totaling 480W) against an LC unit that undersells its 12V rail and barely hits 370W in actual testing? That's a massive 110W gap compared to the Seasonic, even if they're only two amps apart 😁...?
The thing is, the Seasonic actually lives up to its specs...
PFC (power factor correction) works better when it's active. Also, going modular means you aren't stuck with a bunch of hardwired cables; instead, the connectors are right on the unit, so you only plug in the specific cables you actually need. It's a lot easier to avoid a total mess inside your case...
I actually dig this one. It’s a new LED model, looks sharp, and isn't breaking the bank. Plus, it comes with a "Zero Bright Pixel Warranty," which basically means if you catch even a single dead pixel, they just swap it out for you. Reviews look pretty solid too:
The issue is these 2.1 speaker setups; the options out there just suck... I still think going with a 2.0 system is way more cost-effective. Take something like the Genius 1800A, for example—you get two 25W drivers built into actual wood, rather than some cheap 2.1 mess with a pathetic 10W sub and tiny 5W satellites. That kind of hardware just doesn't inspire any confidence in me..
Those Genius speakers pushing 50W RMS can actually move a decent amount of air and fill a room pretty well. Now, how much you can tweak the bass using the built-in filter and whether that’ll actually satisfy you... well, you really just have to go listen to them to know..
I picked up a Labtec Pulse 485 back when it was available; it had a 12W sub and 8W satellites, totaling 28W RMS, or about 56W peak power. In my opinion, those satellites are right on the edge of being enough. The sub is decent, but the overall sound profile is lacking a bit in the highs. That's why I say they're borderline; they'll pump up a small room (around 200 sq ft) well enough, and the only thing the neighbors will hear is the sub... 😁
That's why I think those Genius speakers with the beefy 50W output—which probably hits close to 100W peak—would be a better call for a computer setup. But then, obviously, you've got to consider your sound card... if you're just using an onboard chip, the whole soundstage is just going to sound like garbage..
Check this out. I think it’s got the widest selection, so just browse the models. Honestly, finding high-quality headphones meant for actual music listening that don't suck at having a microphone—and are wireless, too—is a total pain in the ass.
If you decide to go with wired instead, you might want to look here:
Don't even think about trying to run that codegen on a 400W unit...
It really depends on your CPU and how much you're overclocking, but I'd look at something like a Corsair VX450, an XFX 550W, a Seasonic 520W, or maybe a Chieftec 550W...