Posts by George Sanders37

Matthew Cox8 said:I just picked up a new laptop. It's running macOS, and I noticed there's a Google Workspace icon already on it. I need to install it, but it gives me these options:
1. Buy (New user)
2. Activate (Current user)
3. Trial version

It feels pretty bold if I actually have to pay extra for this now. I tried using a few little tools to hunt down a 25-digit key, but nothing seems to work... Any advice?

PS: Can I install Google Workspace from a USB stick onto this system if this doesn't work out? (I assume I'd need to wipe everything related to Google Workspace first?)

Thanks!

When you bought the laptop, the specs should have mentioned exactly what was included. You basically got macOS "for free," while that Google Workspace icon is really just an advertisement—it's just a trial version. If you aren't planning on buying a key, just install Google Workspace, but make sure you uninstall that Google Workspace trial first.

Speaking from my perspective here in Cleveland, I’d say all those decent gaming lounges have shut down—you might see someone try to open one here or there, but they usually fold pretty fast.

Give the internet all the credit.

You can always tweak your Wi-Fi settings—things like the SSID, the password, encryption levels, and so on. I just wanted to point out that if it's enabled, you can connect to and set up the router wirelessly... you don't necessarily need an Ethernet cable for that.

Otherwise, like others here have mentioned, getting the Wi-Fi actually active usually requires either a physical connection or a call to your ISP. But honestly, most modern routers that support wireless sharing come with the AP already configured and turned on by default.

Roger Gray8 said:Are you blind or what? Seriously, how can you not see that?

If I had interpreted the original post that way, I probably wouldn't have bothered replying at all.

Looking at the author's post, I can't really tell if his Wi-Fi is actually turned on or off.

Besides—judging by what was posted on the web—I think we're mostly dealing with a theoretical situation here.

If the device allows it, you can just hop on the Wi-Fi and access the settings using that 192.168.x.x IP address—basically, you'd just connect via your phone or a tablet, I guess.

But, you know, the wireless configuration setting actually has to be enabled on the device itself first.

What kind of laptop are we talking about?
Which OS is running on it?

Quoting Chrome:

Regarding Chrome : for Chrome v40—you can try opening chrome://flags and searching for "Minimum SSL/TLS version supported." Maybe set it to SSLv3, then hit that "Relaunch now" button. Once you head back to your https page, you'll probably run into a "Your connection is not private" warning. If you aren't too concerned about the security implications, I guess you can just click "Advanced" and then "Proceed to (unsafe)." That should do it.

You're basically asking someone who's been banned from the forum—someone who isn't even going to see your message unless they happen to be browsing while logged out or using some other account.

I’m pretty sure you don't even need a driver for an ADSL router. The only thing that might actually require one would be the network card built into your PC—if that's even an issue.

Maybe drop a screenshot here, just like rowdybadger18 suggested.

Are you even using a modem on that computer?

Modems were the devices we used back before ADSL routers became the standard for getting online. Nowadays, an ADSL router connects to your computer via a network card—whether that's wired or wireless—rather than through a modem.

Most likely not.
You aren't going to be able to fix this at home—there's just no way. It’s a mechanical hard drive, so several things could have gone wrong inside—maybe the head crashed onto the platter, or the platter itself is cracked.

If you really need those files, you could try reaching out to a professional data recovery service, though I guess that can get pretty expensive.
Honestly, you might just have to say goodbye to this hard drive.

The main thing is knowing if you're dealing with P-ATA or S-ATA drives.
http://www.newmodeus.com/harddrives/SATAPATA.jpg

If they're P-ATA, you'll need to set one as master and the other as slave if they're sharing a cable—otherwise, if they're on two separate cables, I guess they can both just be set to master.

You can usually figure out how to set them to master or slave by looking at the drive itself; there's typically an 8-pin layout (two rows of four) where you use a jumper to make the change.

Give it a sniff—if you catch a burnt smell, then the capacitors probably blew, which would explain that popping sound you heard.

The only real question is whether the PSU took anything else down with it, since this unit is pretty weak to begin with.

How old is the mouse?
When was it last cleaned?

Optical mice can sometimes act up—like the cursor jumping all over the screen—if there's any debris blocking the sensor.

I'm happy to help—maybe I should explain where things actually went wrong, just so future generations can learn from it 😁

At that point, someone probably went messing around with the registry or tweaking some local group policies—it’s the kind of stuff you can find in those links I shared.

Casey Miller10 said:I'm using Windows 7 Ultimate. My background isn't black—someone changed it, and now I can't change it back myself. It seems locked. When I try searching for the "change desktop background" option, it tells me it can't do it, or that the option doesn't even exist, something like that.

Is it possible someone messed with your settings and disabled the ability to change the wallpaper for your specific user account? Because that's definitely something you can do in the settings.
Also, is the account you're logging into an administrator account, or is there another admin account on the machine?
Maybe try the steps in the link below first—and honestly, that first link I sent you should still work, even if it mentions it's for Vista.
http://www.thewindowsclub.com/cannot...ground-windows

I'm not being sarcastic—it’s actually pretty likely that when you push your graphics card (say, running Skyrim), it draws more power, causing the power supply to trip and crash the card or the whole system.

Just try not to mess around with those kinds of crashes too much—you might end up with a total power supply failure that takes a few other components down with it.

Jerry Morgan3 said:When I'm gaming, I keep an eye on my temps, and the Graphics card doesn't go over 75C during gameplay. To me, that means it isn't overheating; instead, it's likely a lack of juice from the power supply causing the restarts, at least that's my take.

I guess you reached a solid conclusion there.

http://www.vistax64.com/tutorials/10...nt-change.html