Taylor Edwards86, your computer isn't functioning correctly if it keeps resetting. That needs to be fixed first. It could be an issue with Windows, perhaps a virus or something similar. Maybe it’s overheating due to dust, a faulty driver, or a failing power supply. Regarding the photos you copied to the computer: if you aren't deleting the partition or performing a full format, they should remain, provided you don't overwrite the partition with a new installation of Windows. Even now, photos can be transferred to another medium or an external Hard drive, assuming one knows the proper procedure.
The card seems a bit glitchy. It should work again if it’s formatted, but if it refuses to format, you have a much larger problem—it might be permanently dead. Formatting can be done via a PC or a smartphone. If you perform a quick format on a PC, the photos will stay on the card, but you'll need specialized software to recover them; standard tools won't cut it.
As for the exact step-by-step details, a forum isn't the place for that level of instruction.
Check the BIOS battery. Is it sitting higher than 3.20 volts? Perform a CMOS reset, go back into the BIOS, select "Load Optimized Defaults" or whatever similar option you see, then save and exit. Check again to make sure the "LAN" isn't disabled.
Based on what you've told me... if that doesn't work, you might need to manually configure a new network connection within Windows.
If it still fails, a lightning strike through the phone lines could have fried your router or the onboard Network Chipset. You can always just install an old or new PCI LAN card... then just disable the onboard LAN in the BIOS. It'll still be better and more stable than buying some cheap USB Wi-Fi dongle.
If your graphics card is running fine, your PC is stable and you have a signal. That means your power supply is strong enough.
I suspect it’s either a dead CMOS battery or a faulty ASUS motherboard if we're talking hardware. Otherwise, it could just be an issue with macOS—maybe some corrupted files or a malware infection is messing things up.
I suspect you aren't cleaning out everything Revo Uninstaller leaves behind... Run Revo and search for something like the NVIDIA Control Panel Once you find it, double-click it or right-click and select REMOVE Confirm the uninstallation process... I can't recall the exact wording... And when it finishes, do not restart your computer under any circumstances! Stay within the Revo window and click the option to perform a deep scan for leftovers... Check every single box if they aren't already selected, then hit "delete." That is how you actually clear the files—mostly. Anything left should be wiped during the reboot, so only restart once you have manually deleted everything via Revo... Good grief.
I've been thinking about this... Is it possible you bought a TV instead of a monitor? Some of them have great displays nowadays. Would you then try using it as a computer monitor? My guess is the NVIDIA Control Panel isn't recognizing it as a display, so it won't initialize or configure properly.
If you actually have a dedicated PC monitor—not a TV—did you bother installing the monitor driver?
Ultimately, I suspect the software isn't the issue. Or rather, they didn't program it specifically for HDMI... it was designed for a TV, not a monitor.
In order of preference for a PC, you have DisplayPort, though I can't say for certain DVI VGA
If you want to be safe... just go with DVI.!!! And a word of caution: a standard cable handles up to 1,920x1,200 A high-end cable can do more.
Everything there is digital except for VGA. But that's how it goes... there are multiple ways to reach a goal, and they aren't all the same.
I don't know, everyone thinks differently, I suppose. It wouldn't even occur to me to connect my graphics card via HDMI to a monitor when it was clearly intended for a TV. Just like you wouldn't plug a keyboard into a toaster.
At the end of the day... I know most people lack basic knowledge. They make mistakes... just like they struggle to install macOS on separate drives like D: and E: and whatnot. ...I see it every day. When people lack fundamental knowledge, they run into problems and head down the wrong path. You have to spend your whole life learning.
Look, if you play your cards right, I might be able to help you out. Since we're dealing with an external hard drive, it could easily be a faulty cable or some fried electronics. I’d suggest pulling the hard drive out and plugging it directly into a computer's internal SATA port just to test it. If it works, then you know the issue lies with the enclosure. If it doesn't, the data might still be on the hard drive, but the first sectors could be corrupted—which can sometimes be fixed, if you know what you're doing. Alternatively, the hard drive might be dead, meaning you'll have to pay a massive premium to a data recovery lab to pull files straight from the platters. One thing is certain: a hard drive should never take a hit or be dropped. And don't ever just yank the cable while it's powered on; you need to eject it properly.
Did you actually install the right version? 32-bit or 64-bit depends on which macOS you're running... I don't know... the main issue here is clearly your drivers... When you uninstall them, do you restart the computer? You should.. Let it boot up normally and macOS should automatically set the driver as "standard VGA driver"... Then you can install your graphics driver from the disc along with the rest of the software...
Solid card! Does your CPU have integrated graphics that might be causing a conflict? If so, disable them in the BIOS. Set the primary display to PCIe or something similar.. A BIOS/CMOS reset wouldn't hurt either. Once you have a signal coming from the new card, everything should work since you already uninstalled everything. I would start by installing from the disc that came with the card; that ought to work. Then, back up your entire C: drive before you even think about looking for driver updates, though you probably don't need them. If an update breaks everything, you can just run a Recovery.
And I highly doubt CCleaner can find and wipe everything... try using IObit Uninstaller instead; it actually finds and removes everything. Make sure you delete every single bit of Intel software before touching the new card.
The radiator needs to be blown out. It’s choked with dust and can't dissipate heat anymore. Either use compressed air or take it to a repair shop; it isn't expensive. Do you really want to kill your computer and lose all your data? I have a compressor at home. It could also be a failing fan. If you're broke but actually know your way around hardware, you can pull the cooler out and wash it thoroughly with water. Just make sure it is completely dry before reinstalling. You will need to apply new thermal paste to the cooler or the CPU. Don't bother vacuuming it. Vacuuming won't work, but high-pressure compressed air will.
Looking at the situation and considering what you've said... I'd say either your power supply is failing or your graphics card is dead.
Standard procedure would be to check your voltage levels in the BIOS. Go ahead and look—specifically at the 12V rail. What's the reading?
As for the GPU, it's simple. During the transition from MS-DOS to Windows, the card isn't utilizing its full suite of features, which is why you still see an image. Once Windows loads, the hardware initializes fully. If there's a fault there, everything fails.
There could be other causes, but only God knows what you're actually doing.
Take it back to where you bought it; there are several possibilities for what went wrong. Did you bump the tower or something? Maybe the GPU isn't seated properly in the slot anymore. A PC isn't a 70-ton tank. You need to handle it with care, more than you clearly have.
Anything is possible... but first, check if the power supply is still holding up. The PSU is what draws the most power... the 12V rail is the one you really need to watch. There are plenty of UEFI versions and motherboards that display voltage levels directly in the UEFI. Alternatively, put a multimeter on a yellow wire from the power supply against the case chassis... it needs to be at least 11.40 volts.
I don't think you can learn all of this through a forum... especially not in ten minutes... My internet setup looks like this:
A standard ..using two phone lines that connect to a modem, which then connects to a Router, and from there, one or more computers connect via Wi-Fi or an Ethernet cable. You need a device—or integrated hardware—plus the necessary drivers and software. There are also Modem-router combos that handle everything at once. They have a built-in CPU, essentially making them small computers with limited memory. To get a single Router running properly, you have to configure one to three different passwords. And so on... Nobody taught me any of this; nothing in school helped, even though I am an Electrical engineer. Back then, the internet didn't exist. We took our first steps using an Acoustic coupler, and then moved on to the very first modems. It was a long time before the internet became a reality. We were the pioneers of digital communication. We learned the mechanics gradually, figuring things out just as the era of the internet arrived. Who else reading this remembers those early modems? Perhaps you recall the best protocol: Z-Modem? It was fast, and it verified if the receiver understood every block perfectly.
In short, I've already told you quite a bit. Yet, here you are, searching the web to learn what a modem is, what a router does, and how they connect and configure. Every router has its own unique software and interface.
Your GPU might be dead or partially failing. If you're on a desktop, try swapping in another card. It's always worth testing with an old pCi-graficka if you have one lying around, rather than messing with PCI-e or AGP right now.
It's also possible your power supply is shot and isn't delivering enough voltage on the 12V rail. Check your BIOS settings to see if you can monitor the voltage levels; it shouldn't be dropping below 11.40V. Alternatively, just use a multimeter to test the yellow wire or contact against the black wire or the chassis.
At a glance, the BIOS battery might be drained or near death. It’s also possible the hard drive gave out. I'd be interested in attempting a repair, but that isn't something you can do over the internet. First, try entering the BIOS and selecting "Load Default setup," then save and exit. If that fails, it needs a service center.
The default gateway should be 192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.1.2 or 192.168.2.1 .... Is it a small number? Perhaps that is where the issue lies. The gateway remains constant; it is typically the router's address. I would verify if the correct gateway address is set within the IPv4/IPv6 settings...
I have never heard of it failing to reconnect. After 24 hours, the ISP resets the connection. This is standard procedure, and it reconnects automatically.