Did you drop the laptop or just slam it on the desk? You probably killed the Hard Disk. If not, then it’s a miracle the Hard Disk died like that. Maybe try a warranty claim.
It looks to me like you've got a virus that corrupted some system files in Windows, including DirectX. You really need to watch out for malware. Use an antivirus and run a regular backup; if something goes wrong, you can just restore the backup and be back up and running in maybe 10 to 20 minutes. First, I would try a fresh installation of DirectX. I'm not sure which version you need right now, but you can probably find it online, like v11.http://www.tomsguide.com/us/download...0301-2158.html A Windows repair might work, or even a full Reinstall Windows. It’s not a guaranteed fix, but it's worth a shot. If nothing else works, save whatever you can—photos, documents, etc.—to another partition, an external hard drive, a USB stick, or even multiple locations. Then, format the C: drive and perform a clean install of Windows. DirectX isn't tied to your drivers or software; it's integrated into the Windows files themselves.
Ultimately, I don't think it just broke DirectX; it likely damaged other parts of Windows too.
If those fans are plugged directly into the motherboard, you should be able to manually adjust their RPM settings through the BIOS or software. If they're pulling 12V straight from the power supply, you have a few workarounds. The easiest fix? Tapping them at 7V; they’ll run much quieter while still providing enough airflow to keep things cool.
Try resetting the CMOS. Just pulling the battery isn't enough. Try running with just one stick of RAM and perform a proper CMOS reset using the jumper. Make sure there is zero power running to the board and wait at least 15 seconds after unplugging it. Follow the manual exactly.
If you had a Gigabyte motherboard, you wouldn't be dealing with this. They've used Dual-BIOS for seven years now to handle exactly these situations, and most of the time, you don't even need an update. I wouldn't take an ASRock if someone offered it to me for free, regardless of the price. It’s all a joke. Does anyone actually have one that works reliably, or is that just a myth?
Sorry, I have no other advice to offer. When updating, the system must be 100% stable. Use DOS via a USB drive or a floppy, or update directly through the BIOS. If macOS isn't running perfectly stable, do not—under any circumstances—attempt an update through the OS. Follow the motherboard manual to the letter. Anything else is an unnecessary risk. Take the BIOS version for example; after the update, you should boot into macOS normally first, then shut down, restart, enter the BIOS, and select reset / Load Optimized Defaults. Some people go straight into the BIOS and Load optimized defaults immediately... That is why you actually need to read the manual!
Is it better to get mobile data for a phone or a laptop? I honestly have no idea, then you're actually safe. I wouldn't want anyone hijacking my network and potentially causing chaos using my IP addresses, leaving me to prove it wasn't my fault. I’m sure there are people here who know how much mobile data costs on a cellular network.
Or there might be a loose connection within the monitor itself; try applying some pressure across the screen. It might reset everything. I have an older monitor on my desktop and this happens frequently. Is it possible your graphics card is failing on the motherboard? Do you at least clean out the cooling system once a year?
What is wrong with the router? My brother has one just like it, and it’s incredibly sensitive to power surges. For instance, when there's utility work happening nearby and the power goes out, once it kicks back on, the thing refuses to function properly. He constantly has to power cycle it—turn it off, wait a few seconds, turn it back on—and even then, it keeps flickering. Sometimes it just glitches on its own, rebooting repeatedly, or he has to perform a software reset through the browser to get it stable again. The customer service reps at Comcast are always polite, but if this thing dies completely, I’d tell them they need to ship a replacement or fix the old one immediately while the contract is still active. If they refuse, you just switch providers once the contract ends. It’s either a rude policy or a rude representative. This is about my brother and me; high-speed internet is a necessity. I always keep an old spare router on hand—it’s ancient, and I haven't tested it on this current network, but I'm 99% sure it will work. Most of these older models are similar and run fine on ADSL. I can see the technical difference. The Xfinity router, or whatever model it is, allows for software configuration regarding whether the connection is via internal wiring or coaxial cable, whereas the old one lacks those options. That isn't an issue for me. Was it perhaps overheating near a heater or something? Then again, sometimes electronics just fail for no reason. Quality control these days is subpar.
You're lucky you didn't fry the motherboard or the CPU. You should always check if the CPU is compatible first. There are plenty of other CPUs that will fit.
You don't stand a chance, whether you use software or anything else... You'll be better off trying to guess the right password manually... Most websites work like that; if you miss three times, they lock you out for a few minutes, or sometimes even the entire day...
I’d say you have a great shot at calling their phone number or using the website's email Hotline to explain the issue. If the site is legitimate, they'll help you. Alternatively, reach out to the site admin, provide your new email, and immediately send a copy of your Driver's License or other proof of identity.
As for you and anyone else reading this who thinks this won't happen to them—keep your passwords locked in your head. Haha... there is no such thing as 100%. The brain forgets. It happens more often than you think. Take a small scrap of paper, write down the essentials in tiny print, and tuck it into your wallet so you always have it on you. For instance, if an account or email starts with the letter M... you could just write "Manuel 555-xxxx" followed by the password code. Or just write it clearly; nobody is going to read it but you anyway. If you lose your wallet, someone who finds it will likely just take the cash and toss the rest, or return it if they're an honest person. The risk of someone actually using those passwords is lower than getting struck by lightning.
Does anything change if you adjust the screen angle slightly? If so, that indicates either a loose connection at the motherboard or a damaged cable—which will only get worse. Cables tend to snap when they're constantly being opened and closed. I dealt with this every eight months on my work Apple. It wasn't even my fault; I just had to open it constantly while working out in the field.
To looks like a faulty connection within the screen itself. If the flickering comes and goes, it's likely a loose contact; otherwise, I’d bet the backlight died at the bottom edge. Take it back to where you bought it. If there are any valuable photos or documents on there, back them up to an external hard drive first. You never know what happens at a repair shop; they might not even fix it, they might just swap it for a different machine. There's no guarantee you'll get your exact same computer back.
It's possible you were running the screen brightness at full blast, which accelerates wear. Consider yourself lucky it happened now rather than right after the warranty expires. Why not set the brightness to 50% from now on?
They’re pretty much the same. Personally, I’d just go with whichever one offers the longer warranty. Besides, why do you even need an SSD that massive?
I am done with RAID... Backups aren't the issue if the software includes the necessary drivers... The real problems lie elsewhere. Without specific RAID drivers, you can't even boot or install Windows... ...you lose access to vital data like HDD temperature and S.M.A.R.T. metrics... That is my experience with RAID 0. Why do so many developers only do half the job? I am unsure how it performs with an SSD. It should be twice as fast if your motherboard or expansion card Controller is up to speed. You don't really need to monitor temperature on an SSD; they don't get hot. I doubt S.M.A.R.T. data would even be relevant...
It looks like the CMOS battery might be dead, causing parameters to drift in the BIOS, both visible and hidden. If the motherboard is reporting voltages in the BIOS, check them. A 3.3V battery should read at least 3.18V. Anything less is an issue. Alternatively, you could be seeing the same symptoms from a failing power supply. It’s perfectly normal; power supplies don't last forever. That is why it is always better to buy a unit with more headroom—perhaps 25% to 33% higher capacity than required. It provides a buffer that can last ten years or more. If the motherboard was a budget model, which I would never recommend under any circumstances, cheap capacitors fail quickly. This leads to unstable CPU voltage and instability. You can't just measure that easily. It is better to pay $27 more for a quality motherboard that lasts a lifetime. And if this happens? I wouldn't buy from that manufacturer again. The motherboard is a critical component.
Lest I forget, if the BIOS battery is fine, try a Reset-CMOS. If you install a new battery, it is safer to reset the CMOS immediately afterward. Otherwise, you may run into CMOS or parameter conflicts.
Look, it’s about the power supply and the circuit breakers. It either works or it doesn't. If the voltage drops too low—even if it seems high enough when you first boot up—and then dips five minutes later or a breaker loses contact, the PC is going to shut down or reset. 100% certainty on that. There is also the possibility that your motherboard is just low quality. Neither ASRock nor ASUS are top-tier. I've dealt with faulty breakers plenty of times myself. Like I said, they either function or they fail; they don't flicker. If you don't mind, try lowering the FSB in the BIOS by about 5%. It might help stabilize the entire chipset.
That’s just the inevitable failure of an Apple. You're lucky it even boots up. For many people, it won't start at all, leaving them unable to even back up their photos or documents to an external drive. It's the motherboard—specifically, the integrated GPU has lost its connection. This happens when you fail to clean out the cooling system at least once a year, though twice is better. I mean the dust inside the heatsink by the fan, not just the surface. Some units overheat regardless; they only last three to seven years, even with regular cleaning. Temperature fluctuations kill electronics, specifically the boards and the soldered joints. The greater the thermal swing, the faster everything fails. There's a massive trend toward buying an Apple, yet I know plenty of people who don't need portability—they need a real desktop. Desktops are easier to clean, easier to swap the CMOS battery or parts, and far more durable than an Apple.
Every major US city has repair shops that handle this, though they rarely offer warranties because nobody can guarantee how long a fix will actually last. It could be months or years. It depends on the cost of the Apple and its age. Is it even worth it? A new desktop might be the smarter move.
I didn't see this right away, but your handle is "Soul Hunter", who exactly are you hunting? I'm certainly not helping you scam me out of $100,000... whenever humans interfere with nature, they just end up making a massive mess.