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Posts by David Gomez6

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RFID Card Reader DIY Project in Hardware ·
Jack Cook7 said:It is important to clarify that authentication and authorization are two distinct concepts...

I believe I have grasped the situation... 😉 I don't see authorization being an issue at all. It really just comes down to the underlying code logic—defining exactly which tag ID interacts with which specific function. That way, I can program various cards for different purposes, such as ones that trigger Bluetooth data transfers or master cards that unlock every door on the premises... it’s all about how you decide to engineer it at that level of sophistication...

I am somewhat perplexed by the lack of authentication protocols to verify that the user actually possesses the specific card details I provided, rather than some fraudulent data... it leaves quite a few unanswered questions for me. However, I shall attempt to outline a few possibilities that come to mind...

In principle, I would need to possess some sort of secret key to verify that the card was actually programmed by me—essentially a way to validate my own recorded data. However, I see a significant security flaw here: anyone could potentially scan the card, intercept that secret key, and then the entire system becomes completely compromised...
It seems my only viable path forward is to implement a unique secret key that is tied directly to the specific Tag ID. This means every single card will possess its own distinct secret key, while my software remains the sole entity capable of calculating the relationship between the two... Consequently, once a card is scanned, I will capture both pieces of data and perform a logical validation to ensure the decrypted secret key matches the Tag ID based on our predefined parameters...
If the information matches, the card should be perfectly valid... 🙂
Would that be possible...? 🤔

The only minor oversight remaining is that a user could potentially duplicate or copy cards that successfully pass authentication... however, I do not view this as a significant issue. Since a user cannot use this method to hijack the authority level of someone else's card—they can only replicate their own and perhaps gift it to another—it doesn't pose much of a concern in my estimation...

Furthermore, one could theoretically dismantle the device to inspect the underlying code—assuming that is even feasible—to determine the specific relationship between the secret key and the tag ID. Once that logic is uncovered, it would be possible to manufacture any card one desires. However, I am certainly not designing an ATM security system, so I have no intention of wasting my time on such matters... 😁

...
...
One thing I am still pondering is how much experience serves as our most powerful tool... I find myself wondering how I will truly gauge the long-term stability of these components when exposed to various weather conditions. I am not entirely certain that I will have an adequate testing window, which would be quite inconvenient if everything were to fail prematurely...

During the summer months, one can expect significant exposure to intense heat paired with a certain degree of humidity in the air...

Regarding the current heatwave... It won't be under direct sunlight, but they will still be outside where the summer heat is going to be absolutely brutal. I am not entirely convinced that adding any foam insulation would make much of a difference... If my experience with the local HVAC contractors serves me right, the temperature inside would reach the same level whether the insulation is there or not; the only real change would be a slight delay in how quickly the indoor climate shifts toward the outdoor temperature...

The issue of moisture is likely to be even more problematic...
I am optimistic that humidity levels will remain manageable, though I have noticed a small clip that seems to be "slipping" out from the electronics housing. This suggests that the enclosure cannot be completely airtight. While there will likely be some sort of protective system in place to manage the clip's position, I suspect it won't be perfect, which might allow for some moisture infiltration...

To ensure the design functions correctly, the servo motor must be housed within the casing with a mechanical output that interfaces directly with the clip. However, this specific requirement creates a challenge, as it prevents the servo itself from being hermetically sealed. Once you move past the servo, the ESP32 and the RFID reader can be completely sealed off for protection...

Aside from that, there will also be a collision sensor integrated into the setup—something similar to this: shorturl.at/jnpy0. It won't be possible to keep it completely isolated, as it needs to be positioned right next to the piston to verify its final position...

The sensor is my primary concern because it houses the electrical contacts, and I suspect those components will be particularly vulnerable to humidity.
If we opt for a version with a keypad, those buttons will also be subject to contact issues.
Furthermore, I have doubts regarding whether a standard servo can withstand high temperatures and moisture levels... especially since it relies on moving parts and plastic housing if we were to use this: shorturl.at/HLQW3

It is quite difficult to determine if utilizing a servo under these specific environmental conditions makes sense, especially when expecting a lifespan of at least three years.

I realize these questions might be better suited for a different discussion thread and may feel out of place here... nonetheless, these are the uncertainties weighing on my mind. It would be incredibly helpful if anyone could share insights from practical field projects regarding how these components actually performed in such settings.
RFID Card Reader DIY Project in Hardware ·
Jack Cook7 said:Using a dedicated power supply definitely solves the issues with powering the RFID reader, though it does make the overall solution a bit less practical. An RFID reader that can "wake up" the Arduino is certainly a much more elegant and versatile approach, but there is a trade-off: it needs to stay powered on—unless, of course, you decide to go the route of using active RFID tags...

I am fully aware of the compromises involved... It seems to me that I should probably develop both versions, allowing the user to choose whichever system best suits their needs. Besides, I would need to build both options anyway just to get a realistic sense of the power consumption, especially since I've realized that an 80uA draw is actually quite manageable...

I believe you have strayed a bit too far from the mark. There are several established circuits designed specifically to manage battery charge and discharge levels, but I would suggest addressing those initial issues first...

I don't mean to jump straight into the deep end here... I am simply weighing my options at the moment, as my final direction depends heavily on what is available to me. I was merely curious to know if I can truly rely on this component, or if it would be more prudent to leave it out entirely...

First, you really need to establish a solid work plan. For instance...

The core setup involves an Arduino, some batteries, and an RFID reader. When a tag is scanned, it triggers the servo motor drive...
2. Saving the login data to the SD card...
3. Establishing a wireless connection via Bluetooth or Wi-Fi to an external device...
4. Authenticating the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi connections...
5. Authenticating an RFID tag using an RFID reader...
6. A real time clock that continues to function even after the device is physically powered down...
7. Authorizing the RFID tag...
8. Logging both successful and failed attempts for RFID authentication and authorization...
9. Enabling remote access to an Arduino for firmware updates and reconfiguration...
10. Managing sleep/wake cycles on an Arduino; controlling peripherals...
11. Using a keyboard and/or RFID reader as a wake-up signal...
12. Solar battery recharging...

Please feel free to refine the steps, but you really need to maintain a clear plan. Without one, you risk losing focus and drifting aimlessly without actually accomplishing anything...

Yes, exactly... that is how I approach all my projects. I start with a solid plan, break everything down into simple, manageable steps, and then tackle them one by one. It saves me from having to rely on memory... 🙂
When the actual thinking part of a project is done, most of the heavy lifting happens on paper... after that, it’s just a matter of executing the individual tasks without having to worry too much about the logic... 🙂

Regarding the list above, I believe I have already determined a viable solution or approach for many of those items...

I expect this to be quite trivial, especially since the ESP32 comes equipped with its own internal memory...
3./4. Once that's set, I'll have plenty of time to play around while I get the ESP32 up and running...
5. / 7.
Handling user authorization once I've read the tag ID shouldn't pose much of an issue... however, what I am still struggling to wrap my head around is the actual authentication of the RFID tag itself. I am trying to figure out how to prevent someone else from simply scanning the card, reading the data, and then just creating their own custom clone... Hmm...

I nearly overlooked a crucial detail here, assuming the ESP32 would continue tracking time while in sleep mode. I also neglected to account for what happens when the battery runs out... specifically ensuring the clock doesn't reset itself... 🙂 All right... I find myself needing one more component equipped with a clock battery.

8. This falls under category 2 when accessing memory... this part is simply inserting a record.
9. I hadn't actually considered this yet... but once I establish Bluetooth communication, I shouldn't have any trouble developing a mobile app capable of reconfiguring application parameters. Regarding updating the entire code via a wireless connection, I don't think I truly need that. Unless it turns out to be quite simple, why not include it...🙂

10./ 11. I'll have to do some Googling regarding sleep/wake functions.
12. Is there any reason not to include that in the plan? I would simply love to get a rough estimate of how much it might assist with battery life (or perhaps cause issues with other potential complications)...

On another note, if anyone could please provide a hint on which direction I should be thinking in:
3. how to use Arduino digital outputs to control the ON/OFF state of an element, such as an RFID reader. For instance, if I want to programmatically cut power to the RFID reader, I could do it crudely using a switch controlled by a servo motor. (That's just a figure of speech, I assume that isn't how it's done, haha) ... what are my actual options?
It occurs to me that I might use a transistor for this purpose, where applying a small voltage to the third "pin" determines whether it conducts or not? Does that make sense... or is there a different way to handle this? There are probably ready-made relays for Arduino designed specifically for this task?
RFID Card Reader DIY Project in Hardware ·
Jack Cook7 said:...

👍

I am making some slight progress https://photos.app.goo.gl/edaTAzoorLU1weqdA 🙂...

So far, I have been using this second RFID reader, simply because I was able to track one down in Washington, D.C. to run some tests. I haven't fully investigated the specific differences yet, but it seems like the "basic" model mentioned earlier in the thread should be sufficient for my needs.

Regarding the PC setup, I am currently using an Arduino UNO for testing purposes, though I plan to switch over to an ESP32 later on. That board includes built-in Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, plus enough flash memory so that I won't have to deal with the hassle of an SD card module.

As for sleep mode, it looks like the wake-up trigger will be a button press. This little gadget will be battery-powered, so energy efficiency is a major priority for me. I found that the ESP32 draws about 10uA in deep-sleep mode, which is perfectly acceptable. For the RFID reader, I would ideally want it to sit around 10uA as well... the declared 80uA in IDLE mode is just a bit too high for my liking.

Regarding the buttons, I still need to figure out a few things:
1. how to put the Arduino into sleep mode
2. how to wake it up using a button
3. how to use the Arduino's digital outputs to control the ON/OFF state of a component, such as the RFID reader. For instance, if I want to programmatically cut power to the RFID reader, I could do it crudely with a switch controlled by a servo motor. (That is just a figure of speech; I assume that isn't the standard way to go about it, haha) ... what are my actual options?
It occurs to me that I might need a transistor for this purpose, where applying a small voltage to the third pin determines whether it conducts or not. Does that make sense... or is there a different way to handle this? Perhaps there are ready-made relays designed for Arduino for this exact use case?

(P.S. I can easily Google points 1 and 2, but I would truly appreciate any advice regarding point 3)

I am also considering adding a small solar panel to supplement the battery and offset this minor power draw. How much complexity does that add?
Will I need to worry about overcharging the battery with a small solar setup? Or can I simply connect it to the battery and let it contribute whatever it can...
RFID Card Reader DIY Project in Hardware ·
Jack Cook7 said:...

Thank you so much for everything...👍👍👍
I cannot say that I have fully grasped everything just yet, but I intend to revisit the material and read through it all once more... 🙂

Regarding what you mentioned about RFID readers being able to be passive... from what I can see, the market doesn't really offer many options, and... This... The reader tends to be quite modest most of the time...

Should that be the passive one...?
So, based on that, would it mean that even in its passive state, it's still operating at some minimal voltage while drawing that declared "sleep current" of less than 80uA...

It is located right below the item description:...

Technical specifications regarding electrical parameters...
The operating current ranges from 13 to 26mA at a DC 3.3V...
Regarding the idle current consumption, it sits right around 10-13mA when running on a 3.3V DC supply...
3. Sleep current: 4. Peak current stays under 30mA...
5. Operating Frequency: 13.56MHz
7. Physical dimensions: the unit measures 40mm x 60mm...
The environmental operating temperature range is rated from -4°F to 176°F...
9. Operating Environment: This unit is rated to handle storage temperatures ranging from -40 to 85 degrees Celsius...
10. Relative humidity levels: ranging from 5% to 95%...
11. Module interfaces SPI Parameter 12.
12. Data transfer speed: hits a maximum of 10 Mbit/s...


You can easily find pre-made Wi-Fi and/or Bluetooth modules that come with standard PC interfaces, like USB-C, along with various RFID readers. The real question lies in how we handle authentication on a smartphone. Bluetooth seems to be a much more straightforward path for that...

If my understanding is correct, it should be possible to establish communication even with a module that only features Wi-Fi. I'll have to look into just how much more complicated that process is compared to using Bluetooth...

I'm afraid I didn't quite grasp this particular section...
The question regarding waking from, say, S1 to S0 is essentially an issue of the event trigger. Since you are using a passive RFID reader, the voltage or current generated at the interface after waving a card must be sufficient to...
The RFID reader needs to remain powered on at all times...
b) The RFID reader buffers the scanned data whenever a tag is swiped...
c) An RFID reader triggers the wake-up sensor on the other side of the interface...

The RFID reader needs to stay powered up at all times.
As for the (c) sensor, it requires a certain minimum voltage level to function correctly.


- I understand that an Arduino can be kept in sleep mode where it draws almost nothing (roughly 10uA)... I plan to go that route, though I haven't quite grasped the situation regarding the RFID reader yet.
I did realize that waving a card could wake it up and allow it to trigger the Arduino, but I am still struggling to understand the specific prerequisites you mentioned to make that happen...
RFID Card Reader DIY Project in Hardware ·
Jack Cook7 said:What you essentially need is a smartphone equipped with an RFID reader...
I am looking for some guidance regarding the process of reading various types of RFID tags. If anyone has experience with different tag frequencies or specific reader modules, I would greatly appreciate your insights...
I will show you How Easy IT is to connect DS1307 I2C RTC to an ESP32 system while integrating an RFID module for enhanced security and data logging. This project focuses on building a reliable terminal reader that functions seamlessly within a smart home environment. The setup involves interfacing an RFID sensor with an ESP32 to capture entry data, which is then timestamped using the DS1307 I2C RTC module. By utilizing the precise timing capabilities of the RTC, we ensure that every scan is recorded with accurate temporal data, making it ideal for access control logs. To begin, you will need to wire the RFID reader to the designated pins on your ESP32. Once the connection is established, the DS1307 can be added to the I2C bus. It is quite straightforward to configure the code to recognize the unique IDs from the RFID tags and sync them with the real-time clock... For those looking to expand this further, adding an Arduino could provide additional processing power or extra GPIO pins if your current setup feels a bit limited...
I found this interesting RFID reader on AliExpress that might be worth looking into for our upcoming projects...

What kind of phone are we even talking about... if the ultimate goal is to optimize the design and minimize production costs...

Jack Cook7 said:Essentially, what you really need is a smartphone equipped with an RFID reader...

You can find quite a diverse range of RFID tags and readers available today. For instance, you might work with standard Low Frequency options at around 128kHz, which typically offer a reading distance of about 4 inches. Then there are the High Frequency or NFC setups at 13.56MHz, which can reach out up to 3 feet. If you need more range, you can move into the UHF spectrum at approximately 900MHz, providing a read distance of nearly 40 feet. Furthermore, you have both passive and active RFID readers—the latter actually emitting their own signal to energize the tags—which can extend your reach up to 330 feet...

I am looking for something budget-friendly; a reading range of about 4 inches should be more than enough. Ideally, the tag or card would be a passive element, meaning it doesn't require any kind of battery...

Actually, I wasn't aware that the Arduino Nano was available for only $2... at this stage of my project, that level of optimization is exactly what I need. I had previously assumed they were priced closer to $10... 😵

Things are finally starting to simplify... I have practically everything ready to go, except for one thing. I am still a bit unclear on which wireless module I should use to ensure the device can connect to a smartphone and transmit data successfully... 🤔

And one more thing... just as I mentioned previously...

The device is designed with an integrated keypad, ensuring the system remains inactive until a button is pressed. Once triggered, the unit activates to read the RFID card, completes its programmed tasks, and then returns to sleep mode...

Ideally, the device should remain powered down most of the time to conserve battery life. However, there is a slight catch... upon every activation, the system needs to know exactly what time it is...

A few questions have been coming to mind...
Can an Arduino actually keep track of the time if it's physically powered down? In other words, is there a way to provide a small amount of auxiliary power just to keep the clock running...
If the Arduino is physically disconnected from its power supply, would it be able to react fast enough to a button press to boot up and read an RFID card? It really needs to stay responsive within at least a two-second window...
I am asking this under the assumption that an Arduino might significantly drain a battery while sitting in standby mode... however, if it can remain in a standby state while acting as a negligible consumer of power, that would solve all our problems. By a negligible consumer, I mean something akin to a standard wristwatch... since its only responsibility during standby would be keeping track of the time. After all, the device doesn't actually need to independently detect when a card is near the reader; it just needs to be woken up to perform the scan...
RFID Card Reader DIY Project in Hardware ·
Alexander Diaz4 said:Raspberry Pi

Well, isn't that thing even more overdimensioned than an Arduino... unless I am mistaken and there are some "shrunken" versions available?
RFID Card Reader DIY Project in Hardware ·
Hello,

I realize this might not be the most appropriate sub-forum for this inquiry, but I thought I would give it a try...

I am looking for some hardware recommendations for a device designed to read an RFID card and then trigger a small servo motor based on that reading. Additionally, every scan needs to be logged onto a memory card.

The system will be battery-powered, so to maximize energy efficiency, I don't expect the device to be constantly active for scanning. Instead, I am planning to include a push-button so that the system only wakes up once the button is pressed, performs the card read, executes its task, and then returns to sleep mode.

As an optional feature, it would be wonderful if I could integrate a component capable of transmitting the stored data to a mobile device via a wireless or RF signal, such as Bluetooth.

I am aware of Arduino, but it feels a bit over-engineered for this specific application, both in terms of capabilities and cost.
Since I plan on producing multiple units, I am searching for components that are more optimized for such a lightweight workload.

Thank you for any suggestions you might have...
Hello,

I have an external monitor plugged into my laptop, and right from the start, it took about 10 to 15 minutes for the laptop to even realize anything was connected. It was quite frustrating—I spent those 15 minutes clicking the display settings icon over and over, hoping for a response, until suddenly, for no apparent reason, it finally recognized the monitor...

It seemed to work fine for a few days, but then things started acting up whenever I woke the computer from sleep mode. Sometimes the system would wake up only to revert the image back to the laptop screen. Every single time, I’d find myself clicking that display setting icon for another 15 minutes before the image would miraculously return to the external monitor...

I eventually gave up on using sleep mode altogether, but now the exact same issue is happening even after a standard cold boot...

Essentially, for some reason, the laptop loses its connection to the external monitor, while the monitor itself displays "no video input" followed by "entering sleep mode"...

I suspect the monitor might be entering its own sleep mode, causing the two devices to lose sync...

...but I am at a bit of a loss as to what steps I should take next...

P.S. This issue only occurs when using an HDMI cable; everything remains perfectly stable when I use a VGA connection...
Windows 7 Wi-Fi driver issues in IT Support ·
Thank you all so much for the suggestions!! 😉

The laptop finally started behaving itself once we plugged it into the router via Ethernet... it ran through some necessary updates, and everything began working properly. Prior to that, it was simply impossible to install any of the WiFi drivers from HP's website.
Windows 7 Wi-Fi driver issues in IT Support ·
Greetings,

I have a freshly installed version of Windows 7 on my laptop, but I am having a difficult time getting online. Previously, this machine connected to the internet via Wi-Fi without any issues, but now it simply refuses to connect.

I went ahead and installed all the necessary drivers from HP's website... yet the internet remains inaccessible.

I am honestly at a loss as to where to begin. When I attempt to run the troubleshooter, it tells me: Plug an Ethernet cable into the network adapter "Local area connection"

...however, accessing an Ethernet cable isn't particularly easy for me, as the router is located far away and the connection is shared with several other people. I am unsure how to establish a Wi-Fi connection instead...
Greetings...

My mother recently relocated to Sweden to take advantage of a new job opportunity that allows her to earn an income. While the earnings aren't exactly life-changing, the situation has created quite a dilemma for her...

To be precise, she began receiving her full retirement benefits here in the States a few years ago... $333 There are certain things one simply cannot hope to survive...
Now they are feeling quite anxious about which specific laws might be violated if they accept that position while abroad, rather than simply notifying the Social Security Administration here in the States...

Could someone please clarify exactly what this is about? I would truly appreciate some additional context...
What would the consequences be if one decided to remain silent regarding an overseas job opportunity...
And what are the actual odds of being caught if one chooses to remain silent?...

What I truly find puzzling is why anyone would be forbidden from working once they have reached retirement age. Engaging in additional employment doesn't seem to cause any harm to the government... whether that work is performed within the country where one receives their pension, or, as is the case here, while working abroad in another nation...

I am truly grateful for any advice or information you might be able to share...
Gear for remote viewing? in Hardware ·
Greetings,

I am looking for some guidance regarding the electronics required to build a device equipped with a camera that transmits live video wirelessly to a smartphone.

The intended use involves distances typical for operating RC models, such as cars, drones, and similar hobbyist equipment.

From my current understanding, there seem to be two primary methods: either connecting the phone directly to the camera via Wi-Fi, or utilizing a 5.8GHz frequency transmission system.

I know that with consumer drones, one can simply purchase an FPV camera paired with an antenna, then wear specialized goggles that pick up the signal to provide a visual feed. However, there are also versions without goggles where a smartphone is linked to the drone's remote controller, displaying the video through a specific mobile application. In those setups, the remote typically features two antennas—one for controlling the drone and another for receiving the video feed.

I am particularly interested in the latter system. If anyone is knowledgeable about how to break this down into individual components, I would appreciate advice on what is needed to assemble such a setup from scratch.

I will outline my current assumptions regarding the necessary parts, and I welcome anyone with more expertise to supplement my information.

REMOTE SYSTEM (the component containing the camera)
(Please note: I am not focusing on component quality at this stage; the links provided are merely illustrative examples of the types of components I am considering.)
-camera
I believe I would minimize error by selecting an FPV module designed for drones that already includes an antenna connection. I assume the camera requires a power input and provides a signal output. (Assuming if there is power, it functions, and if not, it does not?) I imagine the output would connect to a video transmitter.
For instance, a camera like this: http://www.banggood.com/600TVL-8_0MP...l?rmmds=search .

-video transmitter
...and an antenna similar to those used on drones, such as:
http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-VTX0...ytogether-auto
I presume one cable handles the power and another carries the signal from the camera, resulting in a radio signal that a receiver can detect.

If we consider a camera and transmitter already integrated: http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-TX03...ytogether-auto
In this case, we see only one cable, which likely serves as the power supply for both units, while the signal inputs and outputs remain internal to the two components?

Next, we would simply need a battery; once these components are powered, the video signal is broadcast "into the air" to be captured elsewhere.

CONTROL SYSTEM (the component used for operation)

(I have labeled this "control," though in this simplified example, we are merely viewing the image rather than actively maneuvering anything.)

video receiver - this is clearly the first essential piece.
http://www.banggood.com/5_8G-40CH-25...l?rmmds=search
The receiver obviously needs power, and its output would be the processed signal it captures.
However, how does our receiver distinguish our camera's signal from any other nearby signal? I assume the receiver requires additional inputs or settings to tune specifically to our camera's frequency?

Once we have the video signal, how do we get it onto the smartphone screen?

Presumably, we would need a microcontroller to interface both the video receiver and the phone via a USB connection. But what exact role does the microcontroller play in this chain?

I have observed that when a drone remote is connected to a phone, the device suddenly gains various capabilities through an app to send commands to the drone. It seems the communication between the remote and the phone is multi-layered, where the phone communicates with a microcontroller in several ways defined by the app... and then that microcontroller in the remote transmits those commands via radio signal to the REMOTE SYSTEM where the drone is located...
I must admit this particular section feels somewhat grim, though I shall attempt to provide a brief summary:

-The remote control's microcontroller requires an output-input signal path to connect to a smartphone via USB cable, while simultaneously needing an input from a video receiver. Once we have established those hardware requirements, does the challenge then shift entirely to the software side regarding how to facilitate communication between the microcontroller and the phone?

There you have it; I have simply outlined my current understanding of the situation... My intention is to start by purchasing some entry-level, low-cost components just to build a basic beginner project and encounter these technical hurdles firsthand. Any advice you might offer would be most appreciated. Thank you.
Wage garnishments and collections in Law ·
My recent experience has been quite something,
to put it briefly: the "glitchy" system at Berkshire Hathaway sent a parking ticket to my old residence. (I had already updated my address, yet the fine was mailed to the wrong place)

Since I never received it... interest just kept piling up... and then the entire collection process kicked off, which also took place via that old address. Essentially, every single notice they sent... I never even saw one.

Then, one morning, I noticed a sudden withdrawal from my account $167... and that was the first time I even heard about this!
I went down to the bank to see what on earth happened, only to find out right there that it was a parking fine from Berkshire Hathaway dating back to $33 from 2010, and I was being penalized through no fault of my own $167.

I visited the Berkshire Hathaway office, where the staff actually agreed with me that this feels like pure robbery, and they even gave me the contact info for a consumer protection judge. ..but that judge calmly told me there’s nothing more that can be done once the legal seizure process is finalized.

Good grief, is this actually normal??
This is actually the second time a legal seizure has hit my wallet, and both times I was completely innocent.
This time it was a systemic error... whereas the first time it was a targeted scam and outright theft, and the government practically helps those thieves by using a seizure to clean their hands.

Honestly, who am I supposed to complain to? What's left—suing Berkshire Hathaway or what? I suppose there is no sense in fighting and wasting my nerves and time over $133 ..but it truly is absurd.
Head injury / Fell on my head in Health ·
I followed instructions... took photos, everything went smoothly. 😉

However, I felt completely bombarded by radiation from head to toe...
...it's a shame if no one in this thread eventually addresses the issue of radiation exposure and its potential health risks?...
Head injury / Fell on my head in Health ·
Hello,

I realize everyone is going to tell me to go see a doctor or get an MRI...but please, let’s try to approach this with a bit of rational thinking first.

So, about three days ago, I took a fall. It was a backflip that ended quite clumsily. I hit my head directly on the grass without using my hands to break the fall at all. It wasn't even a side impact; it was a direct vertical hit right on the crown of my head. The impact itself didn't feel incredibly heavy... but as my full body weight came crashing down toward the ground, the pressure on my neck spiked instantly... and I literally heard something pop along my neck. (It's normal for things to pop when you stretch your neck, but who knows if this was within the realm of normalcy)

Once I stood up, everything seemed fine... I could move my neck perfectly well... but the muscle pain in my neck started increasing as I cooled down. By the next day, my neck was quite stiff... I was feeling pain even when swallowing.
However, that stiffness passed so quickly... by the following day, I felt much, much better... so I was hoping it was just some insignificant soreness, provided the bones were okay.
Today, the stiffness is almost gone... but I can feel a certain clicking in my neck, which scares me into thinking the bones might have actually taken too much strain.

Basically, if I rotate my neck to the left... then to the right, every time I turn one way, I feel a slight "click" in my neck. When I turn the other way, there is another click, but it isn't in the same spot. The point where it clicks is slightly offset... so every time, it clicks at one specific spot when looking left, and a different spot when looking right.

Technically, the body clicks everywhere when we stretch... but this clicking in my neck is so precisely located at these specific points that it suggests it isn't just a random occurrence... rather, it clearly indicates that something happened there.

Is there any reason to fear that whatever happened might cause further issues... or is life simply too short to worry about something like this? The clicking itself doesn't really bother me. I mean, most athletes deal with their shoulders or knees catching or clicking occasionally... I am used to that. But this is my neck... grrr

Any advice? I would really prefer not to go get imaging done... I have had more than enough X-rays and scans lately... I'll die of boredom before I die of clicking...
How many grains make a heap? in Philosophy ·
If we consider truth through the lens of magnitude... it becomes quite intuitive to see that a pile of three grains is inherently greater than a pile of two.
It is even more apparent that ten grains constitute a much larger collection than three.
However, let us examine the distinction between a pile of 500,100 grains and one of 500,000 grains. You may notice that the proportional difference between the smaller sets of 10 and 3 is actually more pronounced than the gap between these massive amounts... despite the latter having a numerical difference of 100 grains...
How many grains make a heap? in Philosophy ·
I truly enjoy this line of questioning. In my view, the core issue stems from the fact that we tend to reduce truth down to just two states—either it is or it isn't (1/0). However, reality is far more nuanced than that simple binary. If we allow ourselves to be constrained by those two options, we run into trouble because we end up seeing only two possible scenarios...
It is quite a significant pile...
That isn't exactly a mountain of anything...
And so we find ourselves once again pondering the fundamental question of which single grain was responsible for turning a scattered pile into a mountain...

Suppose I am seasoning a soup, and I decide to add one fewer grain of salt every single time I prepare it. Would my guests perceive the soup as being strictly binary—either salty or not salty? Or is it possible that the perception of saltiness can exist anywhere along a continuous spectrum from 0 to 1, representing 0% to 100%...

What truly fascinates me is that truth is rarely ever a simple matter of one or zero. We tend to view it through that binary lens because it makes the world much easier to interpret and understand... yet, if we attempt to normalize truth by forcing it into a rigid "yes" or "no" framework based on where it happens to land, we lose its ability to react to unpredictable circumstances...

I have a question...
Is a cow considered a bird?...
Is a penguin considered a bird?...
Is the bird alright...?
Is a chicken considered a bird?...
Is a bat considered a bird?...
Is a mouse actually a bat?...
I have often found myself pondering such fundamental questions regarding the classifications of the animal kingdom... Whether a mouse could ever be considered a bird is a curiosity that invites much contemplation...
Is a bison considered a cow...

I am of the opinion that a bison isn't entirely a cow, though it certainly isn't zero percent cow either. By that same logic, a cow isn't zero percent bird, even if it might only be about 0.00001 percent bird. However, a cow is definitely more bird than it is a rock...
Can't remove the "read-only" attribute in IT Support ·
It looks like I actually managed to pull it off in the end... essentially by blindly following the instructions, though I didn't click after this step:
-Enable the checkbox Replace owner on subcontainers and objects then click Apply

...that little checkbox at the bottom that says: "Replace all child object permission entries with inheritable permission entries from this object"

And honestly, I can't even begin to describe how disorganized and buggy this whole process feels, especially when even the interface itself seems glitchy. For instance, in the step "Enable the Full Control checkbox then click OK," once you hit OK, all the checkmarks suddenly vanish and the selection in the top menu changes... so then you have to go back to the top list, switch back to Users, and grant full control all over again. If you catch my drift...

Also, if anyone could explain something to me... because these folder permissions and actions just don't make sense to my brain...
Basically, I'm often halted by the interface, telling me I need to get administrator permission for an action. Then I just click "Continue" and boom, permission granted.
I mean, wtf? If someone else were sitting at the computer, they’d just click "Continue" too, so does that permission really protect anything? Here, if I actually needed protection, it would just be a nuisance...

It would seem logical that when I boot up the computer, I should log in as an administrator so I'm not constantly nagged with that "Continue" button, since that button isn't actually a barrier to anything...
..and if the computer isn't running as an administrator, there probably should be some kind of password required instead of just a simple "Continue" action that doesn't stop anyone...

...unless perhaps this is intended as an extra layer of control for when an application wants to delete or modify specific folders? Though, one would think Windows would distinguish between an action performed through the Windows interface versus an action triggered by an external application...

I suppose I've been looking at this entire thing as one big nonsense, assuming I was simply missing something. But after experiencing this kind of mess, it's quite clear that it's all just poorly put together and rather pointless....
Can't remove the "read-only" attribute in IT Support ·
Actually, I came across this...
The issue doesn't actually stem from the folder being set to Read Only. Instead, the real problem is that since this folder was originally created on a different installation of Windows, you currently lack the necessary NTFS security permissions to access or even read the contents...

To fix this issue, please follow these specific steps to claim ownership and subsequently grant yourself full access to the folder... Right-click The folder > Properties Security Tab > Advanced Click Change to The right of Owner enter Users into box and click ok Enable The full Control Yes Completely close out of The Advanced Security Settings dialog Right-click The folder > Properties Security Tab

Right-click The folder > Properties...
Security tab > Advanced...
Right-click The folder > Properties Security Tab > Advanced Click Change to The right of Owner enter Users into box and click ok Enable The...
enter Users into box and click ok Enable The
Check the box that says "Replace owner on subcontainers and objects" and then go ahead and click Apply...
Should you encounter a prompt stating that you lack the necessary permissions to read the file, simply select Yes...
Yes Completely close out of The Advanced Security Settings dialog Right-click The folder > Properties Security Tab
Right-click The folder > Properties...
Security tab > Edit...
Add...
enter Users into box and click ok Enable The
Enable The full Control checkbox, then click OK...

izvor:I am currently encountering a bit of a technical hurdle while working within a Windows 8.1 environment. I would be most grateful if someone could offer some guidance on how to properly adjust permissions for a specific directory. The issue is that I am unable to modify certain files due to restricted access. To attempt a fix, I have tried following these steps: Right-click The folder > Properties Security Tab > Advanced Click Change to The right of Owner enter Users into box and click ok Enable The full Control. However, even after attempting this, the system seems to resist the changes... If anyone has experience navigating these specific security settings or knows of a more effective way to ensure I have the necessary administrative rights, please let me know. I would truly appreciate any insights you might be able to share...

I followed those exact steps for the entire partition—actually, for the whole drive—and I am still facing the same issue...
Actually, looking at the file itself, the "read-only" attribute isn't checked, yet it's still flagged on the parent folder... I'm not entirely sure if it was always like this or if I just missed it until now... regardless, I'm still unable to make any changes to the files...
Can't remove the "read-only" attribute in IT Support ·
Well... I'm actually seeing now that it isn't just limited to that one specific folder. It looks like everything on this entire drive has switched over to read-only mode.

Are we talking about permissions for the whole disk or partition?

Where exactly would I go to fix that?