Posts by wiredmarlin5

Alright folks, I’m heading out to see if I can actually track down that gear... though I am having a bit of a moment here because for some reason Links.com just won't load on my end...

Give it up for Daniel Nguyen3... just keep it coming! 🙂

The Supertalent-i are decent enough, I suppose, though you have to be careful because they tend to show up with all sorts of different chipsets under the hood... specifically when you're looking at that C4 OC version. As for the other two, well, they aren't exactly built for overclocking, so there's not much room to play there...

Oh, my apologies if I caused any offense there! It’s just that when you have a guy and his girlfriend getting all cozy together, it feels more like a friendly little pat on the back for everyone on the forum...🙂

Daniel Nguyen3 said:Oh man, wiredmarlin5 is such a rookie...
The D9GMH 👍 not the GHM

😁 just a little typo

Daniel Nguyen3 said:Actually, I don't think you quite caught my drift when I was asking why you'd go with the DS3P if you're running an NVIDIA card

See, the DS3P supports CrossFire, but since you've got that 8800GT,
I was just wondering why you didn't just grab the standard one, you know, the DS3

Micek, honestly, don't even sweat it... things like FireWire, better thermal management, and having a dual BIOS are absolute must-haves on a motherboard for me... not to mention I'm actually getting the rev 2.1 version for about the same price as the DS3L edition😛

That whole 16x+4x CrossFire setup doesn't really do anything for me, which is why it isn't even a factor in my choice for this board. 🙂

Honestly, wiredmarlin5 is being such a total pushover... he really needs to get banned... just my two cents...😁

On a different note, I've got some supertalent C4 2 x1GB (D9GHM👍) arriving this Wednesday, and the DS3P should be here later this week too... so things are finally looking up for some serious overclocking...😲

Do you honestly believe that the OCZ brand guarantees better memory performance? Not a chance, my friend... you're really just paying extra for the label on the box. 🙂 Kingston is where the real quality is at.

darkowl72 said:well, if you don't go ahead and disable EIST and C1E, then those settings are basically going to override every single one of your manual tweaks, which means your machine is just going to run on its factory defaults regardless of what you try to do... you can fiddle with the settings all day long, but it won't make a bit of difference if those are still active...

It really just depends on which motherboard you're rocking, because on my setup, everything works perfectly fine with all those little features enabled...👍

You could always go hunting for $367, though I can tell you for a fact that one of my buddies just offloaded an X1950XT AGP—mind you, it didn't come with any warranty—for about $267 on eBay... and honestly, those $500 cards are already sitting at 3850 AGP prices these days! If you asked the folks over at Newegg, they’d probably value it somewhere between 850 and $317, but if you ask me, on a forum like this, it's more like $367, in my humble opinion of course... 🙂

Cheers

What kind of voltages and temperatures are we looking at here?

Harold Lopez31 - Look, the Voltage drop is definitely noticeable, but I guess that's just how the chips roll... personally, when I'm running my E6700 paired with an EVGOM 680 and a Strider ST75F, I see the voltage dip from about 1.35V at idle down to maybe 1.31 or 1.32V...😢

Regarding those DFI boards, I'm aware of the whole rear jumper situation... but honestly, having to constantly fiddle with jumpers like a technician isn't exactly anyone's idea of a good time...

darkowl72, it really looks like that processor has hit an FSB wall right at 285MHz, which is something I haven't really encountered or even heard much about before, though I suppose anything is possible in this hobby...😢

darkowl72 said:So, which motherboard are you actually eyeing?

I was originally thinking about http://forum.pcekspert.com/showthread.php?t=93515, though looking closer now, I see there are several different versions available... and over at Hgspot, they have one specifically designed for $183...

It’s either going to be that, or I might just grab the DFI Infinity Blood Iron, though my main gripe with that one is the lack of an automatic BIOS reset if a boot fails... which would be a total headache...

Then again, the X38 and X48 models are definitely on my radar, but if I go down that path, I'll probably end up wanting to swap out my graphics card too...

I'm honestly leaning towards just picking up a basic AsRock board for my little kitchen PC build... 😁

Honestly, if I were in their shoes, I’d probably dial it back by about 100MHz just to get it back to that sweet spot where everything stays stable without any of those annoying crashes... 🙂

When it comes to making overclocking a bit more painless, my personal little ritual is to always hunt down the top-tier motherboards and the absolute beastly processors first—you know, looking for those peak FSB limits and the highest frequency ceilings possible—because honestly, having that kind of headroom makes the whole process so much smoother... 🙂

Leadtek Winfast—wait, didn't you end up picking up that Gwendolyn card from that kid?

I just wanted to share what my Intel Core 2 Duo E6700 was actually capable of before I completely trashed my motherboard: I managed 3.6GHz at 1.35V, and then even pushed it to 3.85GHz with 1.47V... honestly, such a beast of a processor...

Now I’ve been looking at these newer Wolfdale chips, and man, if only my board wasn't acting up, I’d have one of those inside my rig right now. With a default voltage of 1.15V, you can hit 4 GHz just by bumping it to 1.3V, and it stays rock solid 24/7 for most people... absolutely insane performance... though I'm talking about the E8200 there... once I finally get a new motherboard, I'm definitely going for the Intel Core 2 Duo E8400... I seriously can't wait. 🙂🙂

I haven't heard anything about that personally, though I wasn't tuned into the radio at the time... honestly, I don't see much point in even trying it, especially since I know some folks have messed around on PCI Express and ended up with nothing to show for it. It’s not going to blow anything up, but I’m just not one to take those kinds of risks myself...

Your motherboard should be able to push past 400FSB using the default voltage, and since that processor doesn't hit a wall until at least 350FSB... well, just like I mentioned before, there isn't really any reason to mess with the motherboard voltages. Your main focus should be the CPU voltage, and you absolutely have to keep an eye on your dividers—specifically your memory clock speeds and latency settings. That 2GB Kingmax kit isn't exactly top-of-the-line, so if I were in your shoes, I'd suggest keeping it under 800MHz while you're busy hunting for that maximum CPU clock speed...

If you try running it at 1.65V, you won't have any room left to actually perform any meaningful testing.

And if you ask me, it’s definitely much healthier to just overclock things the standard way rather than messing around with nonsense like BSEL modes...

I’d suggest leaving the multiplier right at 11X, mostly because that keeps the stress on your motherboard to an absolute minimum... In my humble opinion, you really just need to bump up that CPU voltage... maybe aim for something like 1.45V if you're planning on running this thing 24/7... though with NVIDIA, you’ll likely see it settle closer to 1.4V in reality... Increasing the voltage is perfectly fine, honestly, since my old Intel Core 2 Duo E6400 managed to run steady at 1.55V for about three or four months straight without any drama whatsoever...😁

wanderingraven4 said:So, what kind of software are you guys actually using to dial in the CPU fan speeds?

I usually lean on RivaTuner or those ATI Tray Tools...

Though, I should mention that some of these graphics cards just don't give you any way to mess with the fan speeds at all, which can be a bit of a headache sometimes...

Kyle Sanchez4 said:I know, I know, the motherboard is basically a piece of junk at this point, but honestly, it doesn't even matter anymore... I mean, even cranking things up with a Multi 10 isn't doing a lick of good, it's just like hitting a brick wall...So, I was just digging through the technical documentation—you know how it is, getting lost in all those fine print details—and it actually says right there in the manual that the maximum is only 266... which is honestly a bit of a bummer if you were hoping for more speed, isn't it?

Haha, honestly, I think it’s probably best if I just stay quiet and not say a single word about this one...😁

2 Kyle Sanchez4, honestly, it’s not bad at all... even if you didn't quite push that GPU to its absolute limits... I think there's still plenty of headroom left to squeeze out more performance...

wanderingraven4 said:But when we're talking about processor temperatures, are you guys actually looking at the core temperature or the overall CPU package temp? Because I'm seeing a gap of about 10 degrees between the two on my rig... (somewhere around 34 to 44)...

If there’s really that much of a discrepancy, then you can pretty much bet that the software is reading things incorrectly... honestly, the difference between those two readings should really only be about 2 or 3 degrees tops...

What’s the ceiling here? If I push it to 1.8V and throw some decent aftermarket cooling at it, can I hit 4GHz? 🙂

Pushing past 3.3 or 3.4 GHz is going to be a real struggle if you want it running 24/7 without issues, though there might be a few rare exceptions...

With just average technical know-how and keeping the voltage within reasonable limits... it's probably going to be pretty tough to break past that 3.2GHz mark.