Posts by fadedorca66

If they went with liquid cooling, someone was clearly tripping on mushrooms 🤣

Another useful trick that most people miss is adjusting the DPI—it scales everything up on your screen without you having to mess with the actual resolution. If everything looks too tiny, just bump up the DPI settings.

Any PSU will work since they all use the same slots, so you don't have to sweat it. You picked a solid unit, honestly—go for it. You could probably even get away with something weaker if you aren't planning on cramming some crazy high-end GPU in there later.

I'd honestly rather just fix mine so I actually know what I'm working with instead of picking up some half-broken monitor on Craigslist 😁

Honestly, you probably won't even notice the difference in CPU performance, but your wallet definitely will. For $300-$133, I'd say just grab a better cooler (if one isn't already included) or an SSD instead; it'll make the whole setup feel way faster

Fine, take this one:
http://www.newegg.com/asus-a88xm-e-motherboard/p/N82E16813149210

It’s got HDMI, so you won't have to mess around with adapters.

I’d probably skip ASRock; they can be a bit finicky with their LGA 1151 sockets. I actually own one, and there are a few little things about it that just get on my nerves...

And definitely grab two sticks to hit 4GB of faster RAM—your GPU will perform way better if the memory is running in dual channel.

We didn't get any info on the monitor model or anything else. Since your backlight died, I guess an electrician would have to take a look to figure out what's actually wrong. It could be something in the power supply feeding the inverter, maybe the inverter itself, or just a dead bulb or LED, depending on the specific monitor you've got.

Everything's gonna be fine

Ask about this in this thread:

I guess I won't bother switching over because I'd probably never actually find the post anyway. 🙂

Look, an i5 is probably total overkill for what you're planning, but if it fits the budget, I guess go for it.

You definitely need to grab an SSD; the whole system will feel way smoother.

An i5-4590 is a waste of cash, honestly. Just pick up the cheapest i5 you can find since that tiny difference in MHz won't even matter.

Also, maybe steer clear of eDigital. I hear nothing but horror stories about them. Here’s my take on a build from Newegg

1 x DDR3 8GB (1x8GB) Kingston, Kingston Fury, 1866MHz, CL10
1 x HDD Seagate 1TB, Serial ATA III, 7200 rpm, ST1000DM003
1 x Power Supply EVGA 400W, HEXA Plus 400, 12cm fan
1 x DVD burner LG GH24NS, DVD±RW, 24x DVD±R ,8x DL , 40x CD-R
1 x ASUS H81M-K, 1150, Intel ® H81 express chipset, DDR3
1 x Processor Intel Core i5-4460 (3.20GHz,1MB,6MB,84 W,1150) Box
1 x Kingston SSD 120GB Kingston Fury, 2.5", SATA 3 6G
1 x Zalman T5 mini tower case. 170(W) x 427(H) x 348(D)mm.
$1259

It's a little pricey, but you'll be glad you went with the SSD. You could always swap in a cheaper case to save some cash.

Ryan Hayes82 said:Intel's CPU is way better for LoL

That applies to World of Tanks, you're kind of mixing things up 😁

Not really possible.

You’ve gotta right-click and hit properties on each of those default user folders (Downloads, Getty Images, desktop...) and you should see a Change location tab there.

Older or newer game? I guess if there's anything recent available, I'd look at that, maybe something on a DDR3 platform so you can just swap in a better processor later and whatever else you want

I'm guessing this is just for some casual gaming? If I were you, I'd probably go with this one:

http://www.craigslist.org/vi/pc-computers/r...listing-16518197

That one with the Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 seems alright too, but they didn't even mention what kind of GPU is inside.

There’s no way you have a socket 939 CPU on an AM2 board; the slots physically won't match up. You probably have an Athlon 64 3200, but there's an AM2 version of that too.
You likely couldn't get the cooler off because the thermal paste has basically turned into cement. It's a good thing you didn't force it, since people end up bending pins all the time (I've definitely been there 😬). If you really want to pull it off, you'll need fresh paste ready since the old stuff is totally dried out. Basically, you should take it off, clean the old gunk, and apply new paste. The easiest trick is to run a benchmark to heat the PC up first, then try to remove the cooler while it's still warm—just wiggle it side to side instead of pulling straight up.

That's an ancient, weak single-core processor, and modern software is pretty hungry, even a standard browser like Google Chrome. Flash and stuff like that will just freeze it up. As for having multiple processes, Google Chrome usually opens every tab in its own process to stay stable (so if one crashes, the whole thing doesn't die). It can easily show more than just a few processes running.

You can grab dual-core processors for AM2 on eBay for next to nothing, and once you swap that in, things should run a bit more normally. Even though it's probably not worth sinking money into these old rigs, you won't go broke spending maybe $5 or $6:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMD-Dual-Cor...item28080f831b

You could probably just grab this cooler too. It’s cheap, you won't have to wait a month for shipping, and honestly, it's a total steal. Plus, you can just move it over to your next build later on:

Maybe grab Hiren's Boot CD and run a quick scan on the RAM and the hard drive for any bad sectors

Whatever, I guess it makes more sense to just dump that money into a UPS instead of a new motherboard.

Which driver did you install? What's the BSOD saying?

*MHz, you don't need that g 🙂

What motherboard are you running? Maybe check with CPU-Z or AIDA64.