Brian Campbell36 said:Changed my mind on the R9 290 OC. By the time I went to grab one, all the discounted cards were already spoken for.
They promised to ship my graphics in a couple of days, but only if I pay the higher exchange rate. 🙂
I'm thinking about picking up this R9 290, but it isn't the OC version. 🤔So, does that model actually work? Anyone got real experience with it?
Check out this link. It’s basically the same thing as looking at a catalog from an electronics retailer like Best Buy to see what's available.
Check this out. Looks like a decent setup if you know what you're looking for.
You got this card? $33 Something cheaper with a higher core clock. Basically, I want something that outpaces the ASUS model without the markup.
The R9 290 OC 4G TXOC is a decent little card if you can find it at a good price. It’s basically like buying a used Ford F-150—it gets the job done, but don't expect it to win any races against the newer models.
fadedorca66 said:I'd go with the Gigabyte. You get better expansion options with those slots (2x PCI and PCI-e x4), plus it actually has a decent heatsink on the VRMs.
Drew Sanchez82, I can't say I agree that the price for a 970 is reasonable. Over here, it’s $1000 sitting at about $500, while in the States you can grab one for anywhere from $300 to $350 depending on the brand—so roughly $1800-$700. That's a massive chunk of change. With what we pay for a 970 here, you could easily walk into a store in the US, pick up a 980, and still have cash left over.
gentlesailor43 said:Back again.😁 I've settled on the GPU and CPU combo (i5 4460 + R9 280), but I'm still stuck on the motherboard. Looking for some input.
Gigabyte GA-B85M-D3H $195
ASUS B85M-G $190
Asrock H97 ANNIVERSARY $220
ASUS H97M-E, 1150 $249
Everything is from Micro Center.
Would the last two give me enough room to upgrade to Broadwell later? Is it worth dropping an extra 100-$67 USD just for that?
Not in my book. The jump from Haswell to Broadwell is basically like going from Sandy Bridge to Ivy Bridge. The main improvement is just the integrated graphics, which you won't even use.
Just grab a cheaper B85 board with 4 RAM slots and call it a day.😉
Adam Moore3 said:Break it down and do the math. If the case is roughly $23, then based on what crimsonstag84 thinks, you're looking at $533. Even though this motherboard is actually decent (for an old socket), I wouldn't let it go for less than $50. Honestly, you could probably snag one on eBay for $500 at the absolute lowest.
Whether it can happen and whether it actually will are two different stories. This stuff is five or six generations old. I highly doubt anyone's dropping that kind of cash on it.😁
Patrick Harris8 said:Can I get an estimate for this ancient rig?
Motherboard: ASUS P45 Motherboard, Dual Channel DDR3; Graphics card: integrated into the motherboard.; CPU: Intel Celeron 2.4 GHz; HDD: Seagate 80 GB, 7200 RPM ST380011A; RAM: 768 MB Kingmax DDR3 plus some other stick I can't identify; regarding RAM, I have another computer from that era with 2 GB DDR3, so if needed, I could probably swap a stick in there. Power supply: Dell Precision; Optical drives: one DVD burner, another DVD reader, and a floppy drive. Cooling: Cooler Master fans, both for the CPU and an extra 80mm one for better airflow. Case brand is unknown, but it’s huge—fits 4 hard drives, 4 optical drives, and 2 floppies.
It's running Windows XP Professional and hasn't had any issues. It hasn't been used at all for the last 3 or 4 years; before that, it was just for browsing the web and playing basic Windows games like Mahjong or Solitaire... Besides the PC, I'm also selling a 17-inch Belinea monitor, Model no: 10 17 10.
I can't get the specs for the second computer right now because I'm selling that one too.
Anyway, hope this is detailed enough for someone to give me a price. 😁 Thanks in advance 😁
One Intel Core i3, Intel Black Edition (3.7GHz, 4MB, 95W, Intel LGA 1150) boxed. One 4GB stick of Adata DDR3 1333MHz RAM. One 500GB Seagate BarraCuda desktop hard drive (3.5", 32MB cache, SATA III-600). One MS Phoenix case, no power supply included. One Fortron Hexa+ 400W power supply, 80 Plus rated, active cooling, 12 cm fan. One NVIDIA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 1GB GDDR5. It’s got HDMI, DVI-I, and DP. Clocked at 1050MHz/1500MHz, 128-bit, dual-slot cooling. Lite version. One LC POWER cooler, fits Intel LGA 1150 or AMD sockets. 1 x MSI Intel B85 Micro ATX Motherboard (LGA 1150, DDR3, SATA III, RAID, USB 3.0/2.0, Gigabit LAN, VGA, HDMI) Retail Total: $1074
I can't work with that. Give me something to actually write. Futura IT.
1 x Intel Core i3 3.70GHz, 4 cores, 4MB cache 1 x XFX NVIDIA GeForce GTX 750 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 1075M Boost 1GB DDR5 Display One MS Phoenix mid-tower case. No PSU included. Fits ATX or mATX boards. One Fortron 400W Hexa Plus 400 power supply with a 12cm fan. Just one 4GB stick of Crucial DDR3, 1600MHz CL11. 1 x Seagate BarraCuda 500GB, 7200rpm, SATA 6 Gb/s, 32MB One Spire Kepler Rev.2 cooler. Fits Intel LGA 1150 or similar setups. Dimensions are 96.5x51x125 mm with a 92mm fan. One Asrock motherboard using an Intel LGA 1150 socket.
$1075 I don't know what you want me to do with just a URL. Give me some actual content to work with.
Rhea is strictly for Intel builds. Just a heads up: if you're pairing Cooler Master products with AMD, you'll need a case with an open top because those coolers blow upward. You'll either need something from the Cooler Master product line or a Cooler Master Hyper 212 style setup.
It still feels weird that there’s zero info in the description. Basically, my only real move here is to swap out the cooler and plug this in:
Check out this link to some hardware specs. It’s basic stuff, nothing groundbreaking.
You butchered this build. For an extra 5 bucks, you could have a way better setup. a) I'd put more money toward $17 Check this out b) Or push the budget for $1.00 Click here instead
The only real difference is the case. The Cooler Master one feels a bit higher quality, but both come with two fans already installed.
Kimberly Gomez34 said:If it isn't likely a faulty motherboard, then you're looking at an MSI issue; they really struggled with the AM3+ socket, especially their budget and mid-range lines.
Generally true, but just my two cents—my MSI board is bottom-of-the-barrel, yet it’s been chugging along fine for three years now. Maybe you'll get lucky.
I've got this PC that keeps freezing up after about 2 or 3 minutes while running OCCT. Specifically, it happens during the CPU:Linpack test—the actual CPU stress test runs fine, but then 😳 OCCT just freezes, or it happens about 10 minutes into a gaming session.
Specs:
- A 320GB WD Blue SATA drive; I've checked it with HDD Sentinel, CrystalDiskMark, and HDD Regenerator, and it shows as 100% healthy across the board.
- Power supply: I was using an old 400W MS Industrial unit—honestly, it was junk—so I swapped it out for a Corsair, but I'm still using the same thermal paste.
- HD6670 graphics card: Tested it, and it's working perfectly whether under load or idle.
- RAM: A mix of 1GB DDR3 and 2GB DDR3, totaling 3GB. I ran MemTest, and they seem to be performing without any issues.
- CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo. Temperatures look totally normal even under 100% load, but like I mentioned, OCCT causes the screen to freeze after two minutes. Then I have to hard-reset the computer, and you get that annoying "tzzzzzzz" buzzing sound. 😁
- Motherboard: MSI 770-C45—though I'm really not sure if the board itself is the culprit here.
If anyone has any suggestions on what else I should try testing, please let me know—I'd really appreciate the help.
I don't think it's a driver issue, since the exact same thing happens even after a fresh OS installation.
Feels like I'm reading my own post from over two years ago. Same exact issue.
If you're using a cheap case, pull the I/O shield off the motherboard or insulate it somehow. Mine used to crash during OCCT tests and throw blue screens too.
The case and the shield are causing a short circuit.😬
graniteharbor85 said:If you're obsessed with warranties, just go with Crucial and get a lifetime one. I'd skip Vengeance—it's failed on me too many times and left me staring at BSOD screens.
I've had great luck with Kingmax RAM, but good luck actually finding it in an American store.👎
Sean Garcia3 said:Look, I didn't see how old the PC was. I was rushing while reading the post. I actually have a job, unlike some people who live on the internet 24/7. Every post you make just shows how much of a joke you are. I can't tell if you've been here 12 or 13 years. 🤣
You're shooting yourself in the foot. If you don't read a post properly, don't reply to it. It's smarter than just talking nonsense. If someone had been around here 12-13 years ago, they'd know it was you. Your writing style and general attitude give you away. You aren't even that old; probably just some high schooler acting out. ☕
Adam Moore3 said:Good grief. I don't know who's worse: Robert Rodriguez2 for being such a relentless copycat, or Newegg for constantly coming back here with useless, illiterate posts that trigger these reactions. If this is just an estimate, and you agree with it, why bother "responding" to a question that wasn't even asked? Why keep provoking people? 🙂
Because he gets on my nerves. He comes in and talks trash for no reason. I'd rather not have someone dragging my family into their stupidity. 👍
Sean Garcia3 said:I don't get why my post is useless. I gave a detailed breakdown for every component since I doubt they'll sell the whole rig at once. Since I didn't see the age of the PC, I assumed it was maybe a year or two old and thought they might want to buy all new parts and sell this one. Not everyone knows hardware like we do; some people think you have to replace everything after two years. And explain what you mean by me "coming back." I commented once, I didn't do it a hundred times. Or are we back to that thing about me being a clone, where I should just report you like I did to Quote: The New York Times recently?
Just give it a rest. If you're going to post, at least try to read the actual prompt instead of skimming two words and suggesting random combinations that nobody asked for. 🤦
Timothy Kim60 said:Looks like that worked out fine 🙂
Sean Garcia3 said:Are you selling because you're eyeing an upgrade, or do you just need the cash for something else?
If you’re thinking about upgrading, I wouldn't touch this setup. Everything is solid except for the power supply. Personally, I’d just swap out the PSU and sell the old one for whatever I can get. $67 Just flipped my GTX 660. $250 I'm grabbing a gtx 970 too. If the budget holds up, I’ll probably pick up a Samsung 850 120GB SSD as well. I wouldn't swap out the CPU just yet, but in maybe two years you could jump to an i7 4790k, slap on a decent cooler, and you're set for a few more years.
If you're offloading your rig just because you need the cash for something else, here’s how you should list it on Craigslist:
Intel I5 4440. Just a basic chip. $367 Intel I5 4440 gigabyte gtx 660 $250 MSI Z87 Gryphon. $233 The WD Blue (WD5000AAKX) is just another standard hard drive. Nothing special about it. $83 Fractal Design Define R4 case, white. $167 Corsair vs. some cheap 550W unit? It's like choosing between a Ford and a junker you found in a ditch. Don't cheap out. $67 8GB at 1600 MHz. $150
Total:$1317 I wouldn't offer you a dime more. You didn't even mention how old this stuff is or if there's any warranty left.
Are you blind or just ignoring facts? You wrote "6 months old" right there. 😂
So this guy is trying to sell his PC, and you're out here giving him a list of upgrades. 🤦
ruggedraven10 said:The MS Phoenix case without a power supply mentioned by Robert Rodriguez2... $60, how much does the case actually matter in this whole setup? I see them ranging from $333 up to $180; surely it’s about more than just looks? Of course, if the MS Phoenix really does the job, then there's no issue.
Anyway, thanks to everyone for the quick replies.
I picked it to stay under budget, but yeah, grabbing something better—like a Zalman Z1 or Z3—would've been the move.