553 posts shown.
feraljackal21 said:Alright, analogtiger19, I hear what you're saying... though perhaps I was a bit excessive in my description of the workload. My goal is simply to secure a robust configuration that won't necessitate a total overhaul within the next three or four years. It’s entirely possible that the user's needs will evolve during that timeframe, making the demand for such a high-multitasking capacity even greater. Ideally, this build should remain viable through minor upgrades—like adding more RAM, swapping out the GPU, or installing a faster processor—if memory serves me correctly from my own days of upgrading hardware. 😁
Here is the proposed configuration, which is a synthesis of your suggestions. I would appreciate your assistance in determining whether the chassis provides sufficient clearance for the motherboard, the cooler, and the power supply... and if there are any compatibility issues regarding the RAM, motherboard, CPU, HDD, and so on.
I am somewhat conflicted because Halekov introduced a new socket, yet my research suggests that support for the older one remains perfectly adequate, with new processors still being released for it. Meanwhile, the price jump for the newer generation seems quite steep for what appears to be a relatively marginal gain in actual performance. I hope my decision to stick with the older (1150) platform isn't a significant oversight.
So, here we go:
- Motherboard: ASUS H97-PLUS, 1150, Intel ® H97 - 792.00
- CPU: Intel Core i7-4790 (3.60GHz, 1MB, 8MB, 84W, 1150) Box - 2657.99
- CPU Cooler: Scythe Mugen MAX, SCMGD-1000 – 328.99
- RAM: 2X DDR3 8GB (1x8GB) Kingston, HyperX Fury, 1866MHz, CL10 - 380.00
- Power Supply: SEASONIC 450G, SS-450G, Haswell ready, G series - 673.99
- SSD Hard Drive: OCZ SSD ARC 100 240GB, OCZ Barefoot 3 M10 Controller - 749.99
- Hard Drive: TOSHIBA 2TB, 7200 rpm, SATA 3 6Gb/s, 64MB cache, 3.5", DT01ACA20 - 617.00
- Graphics Card: Gigabyte GTX750Ti OC 2048 GDDR5 128bit, GV-N75TOC-2GL - 1127.00
- Optical Drive: ASUS DRW-24F1ST/BLK/B/AS SATA, DVD-R 24x, DVD-RW 6x, DVD+R 24x - 134.99
- Case: Zalman Z3 mid tower case – 308.99
- Keyboard and Mouse: Logitech Wireless desktop MK330, Long-range 2.4 GHz wireless - 337.00
- Speakers: Logitech Multimedia Speakers Z200, black, 10w - 224.99
- Headset: Logitech H110, Frequency response 50 Hz to 15 kHz - 100.00
- Camera: Logitech HD C270, CMOS technology, Video resolution 1280x720 - 214.99
- Monitor: Dell P2414H (24", 1920x1080, IPS, Height Adjustable, Pivot - 1649.00
TOTAL: 10676.92
That is everything... I would also welcome any additional thoughts regarding the "noise levels" of this machine. Specifically, I am referring to the integrated case fans, the power supply, and the CPU cooler.
I opted for the Dell monitor because I recall how impressive their IPS panels were a few years back. Plus, it features a pivot function—something you might only use once a year, but when you actually need it, it's incredibly useful to have!😁
I still have this bias toward Asus motherboards; in my mind, they just feel higher quality than Asrock or MSI. Though, in all honesty, that probably just says how outdated my info is...
It’s hard to get an accurate sense of component colors through a screen (the monitor, keyboard, speakers, mouse, webcam, etc.), so I'm hoping those of you with experience using these parts can tell me if the colors are decent and won't be an eyesore. My wife is the one using this, so I really need to make sure the aesthetics aren't offensive 😉.
I was also considering suggesting a 2TB external 2.5'' HDD for backups so she can easily take it home with her. I'm not entirely sure if that's a necessary addition, so I'd appreciate your thoughts on that.
One more thing—I remember Toshiba HDDs being incredibly reliable, but man, were they loud. I'm hoping they've improved on the noise levels lately...?
The only real "win" with Halekov's chip choice is DDR4 support. Once we're done with Broadwell, the 1150 socket is basically a dead end. Intel just dropped the 1151 socket for those new Skylake chips (which also use DDR4), so 1150 is hitting its limit. Still, it's not exactly a catastrophe.
Adam Moore3 said:Some sort of 2011-v3 i7 paired with 32 GB of RAM and a 256 GB SSD should definitely fit in here. 🙂
You thinking of the Halekov build? Yeah, that's my favorite too. 🙂
...but it’ll also bleed you dry.
Lawrence Reed3 said:I wonder what could be causing my new computer to show a hard drive capacity of only 194 GB when it’s actually supposed to be a 1 TB drive? I'm using a Seagate Barracuda 1TB HDD, and the OS is Windows 10 ME edition 64-bit—if that even makes sense! I guess I've just never run into something like this before.
Maybe you just have it split into multiple partitions?
It’s pretty straightforward—just figure out which port matches your cable...then you just pick the right VGA adapter.
Whenever I think about Markan, I just can't deal with these kinds of questions anymore 😬
shadowraven4 said:Yeah, for gaming... where did I mess up?🕺>
First off, this CPU is a bad deal. You either go with that B85-G41 PC Mate paired with an Intel Core i5-4460, or you step it up to an Intel Core i5-4690k with a Z97 motherboard. It's basic math.
Zachary Bishop11 said:I did a little digging online and found someone saying this might help.
"Try resetting the CMOS with the jumper if that does not make it work then it's going to need a motherboard. "
What's that actually supposed to mean?
Drop the full model name of the motherboard. Basically, he means if clearing the CMOS doesn't fix it, you're looking at buying a new board...
Zachary Bishop11 said:Guys, looks like it’s a dead PCIe slot or something else rather than the GPU itself... My card just arrived, I plug it in, and nothing. Total nightmare. 🙂 What am I supposed to do now?
What motherboard are you running? (I know it's a long shot since the odds of having a second functional slot are slim, but you never know 😬)
Jesse Brown90 said:If I need a rig for Grand Theft Auto V and The Witcher 3, maybe I shouldn't bother buying one at all. It’s nonsense. Just tell me one card worth avoiding if I'm dropping $500 on it. Writing this with a cool head, not even upset, but seriously, xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx... go ahead and fund it yourselves!..
Isn't $1.00 too much for a GPU? -Yeah!
So you gonna buy it yourself then? -I am!
When? -Once I figure out whether the GTX 970 or the R9 390 performs better at 1080p with DX12. ☕
You must be some "rich jerk" or a government leech to drop that kind of cash on a graphics card!-Jerk? Sure. Rich or living off taxes? No. I just "save up" a bit for myself since I don't spend more money going out than I do hanging out with my wife and kids at home (I've "grown old" 😬). I don't spend on summer vacations because we live by the coast, I don't go skiing because it's pointless, and
most importantly: the kids are still "little," so they aren't demanding I blow money on their "nonsense" (expensive GPUs and stuff like that 🙂)...
George Sanders37 said:Basically, everyone has their own idea of what's worth spending money on. ☕
Just because you can't wrap your head around someone dropping $1000 on a GPU doesn't mean they shouldn't.
Exactly. Someone driving a beat-up Honda Civic will pay for new paint $200, while someone in a BMW 5 Series will just drop the cash $2.00 😬
Jesse Brown90 said:but no, I can run basically everything new with my /+GT 9800/ setup /except for garbage like The Witcher 3/, and I can even handle Crysis 3 since they finally dropped a DX patch/...your parents are seriously clueless and you kids are spoiled brats if you're getting funded with those kinds of massive amounts for GPUs..
Is this even how life works in America?.. what kind of income are we talking about here? A whole new rig? Someone please name two "serious" games that my machine won't be able to push. It’s an old beast, sure, but it works, damn it!.. this isn't 2000-2005 when hardware doubled in power every six months..
What are you even rambling about? 🤦 If you're a kid whose parents won't give you more than $100 or you're an adult who just can't afford a bigger amount, that's on you. No need to get salty at anyone else who can afford more than $100, whether they're a kid being funded by parents or an adult paying their own way 🙄
And just for my own curiosity, what exactly qualifies as a "serious game" in your book? ☕
Jacob Flores18 said:I’m stuck out here in San Francisco where the only thing close to cleaning gear is a self-service car wash, let alone anything for a PC. The nearest Best Buy is all the way in Miami, and with my job and those brutal 12-hour shifts, I can't exactly just hop in the car and drive down there.
Just order it online. You get shipping... usually free if you spend over $0.67 (at Best Buy and above $0.33), so I don't see what being in San Francisco has to do with anything. 🤷
crimsonstag84 said:$5500 at 24 installments ~ $227 a month
$3333 at 12 installments ~ $278 a month
It’s not a huge gap... if you take that first build I got from Best Buy and just swap in an NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970.
Maybe his budget is just what he can swing $233 per month... we all know everything else besides Microsoft is way cheaper in the long run, but if he's stuck on a "monthly budget," then whatever, that's his problem.☕
I don't know how many shops (besides Newegg) actually offer 24 monthly installments on online Amex payments. Most places usually cap it at 6 to 12 months for online orders... so you might honestly be stuck with that one if you want those terms (at least in terms of where you can shop) 🤷
Jerry Watson2 said:Nah, just stock settings. There's this MSI app where you can toggle between three modes: Silent (300 MHz), Gaming (1080 MHz), and OC (1120 MHz). It's sitting on Gaming right now, but like I mentioned before, the PC doesn't actually shut down or restart; it just hits me with a Blue Screen of Death (sometimes the monitor goes black, sometimes it's just black and white stripes or some other weird glitch). The audio keeps playing, though—like if I'm watching YouTube—but the picture just vanishes.
Blue Screen of Death usually means the whole system is crashing (you'll need to reboot), and it typically gives you an error code explaining what went wrong. If you aren't getting a Blue Screen of Death at all and it's just the display issues you described, then you might need to put the monitor on the suspect list too. 🍿
Brian Wright41 said:...I'm not sure if the Enermax fans are exhausting or pulling cool air into the case, so if anyone could tell me which side is which...
If there isn't an arrow on them showing the airflow direction, then you aren't going to get a simpler answer than that. 😬
EDIT: here are some pics showing "correct" airflow for your case 😬
For that kind of money and with those specific requirements (SSD and Diskont24)...
Microsoft industrial MS Flam case without PSU - $128.70
Corsair VS350 PSU - $258.95
MSI MB H81M-P33 - $333.24
Kingston DDR3 1600MHz, CL11, 2GB - $113.65
Kingston DDR3 1600MHz, CL11, 2GB - $113.65
Intel box Processor Intel Celeron G1820 - $269.91
LG GH24NSC0 sat Bulk Black 24x optical drive - $97.50
OCZ SSD ARC 100 120GB,R475 /W395,75K,S3 - $475.09
$597 cash
Honestly, that red case looks hideous. If you don't actually need an optical drive, just grab a better case for that price.😬
EDIT: forgot to include the keyboard and monitor.🙈
+ Genius KM-110X keyboard+mouse, USB, black - $28 (screw it, I blew the budget)😬
Fractal and Seasonic are definitely hitting my wallet harder than I’d like, so I guess I'll be scraping together some extra cash like TNG suggested ☕.
...but now I'm stuck: should I go with Antec as the main focus or just keep it as an afterthought? 😬.
I'm out of ideas here, so I'll let you guys decide 🙈...between these three (
Antec,
Fortron,
SuperFlower). The prices are basically identical and the warranties are the same. Which one would you pick for this PC build? (Keep in mind I'm planning to add two more fans to the case, and by the end of the year, I want to swap the HD7850 for a GTX 970):
CPU: Intel I5-4690K @ 3.5 GHz
MBO: Asrock Z-97 Pro4
RAM: 2X8 GB DDR3-1866
GPU: XFX HD 7850 2GB DD
PSU: CORSAIR 650HX
CASE: ANTEC 300 (two fans)
SSD1: 120 GB Samsung EVO
HDD2: 500 GB Seagate 7200 SATA
HDD3: 1 TB Samsung 7200 SATA
HDD4: 1 TB WD My Passport - external
MONITOR: Samsung S23A350H, 23" LED
I'm not worried about the fans regarding power draw, just concerned about how many cables come with the PSU 😉