Chase Online

Give the utility company a call on Tuesday—I’m not entirely sure if you need to file a formal dispute or if a quick phone call will cut it (it’s been over two years since my last mishap)—but the bank should be able to coordinate with the electric company to get those overpayments credited back to your account.

Look, if you can't get it sorted with JPMorgan Chase, just head straight to an Exelon service center and ask them to refund you.

I stopped by the Exelon office earlier today, and the representative told me I needed to file a formal request to get my overpayment refunded, so I handed her the receipt from my payment and she assured me the funds would be back in my account within 24 hours 😁

Let me clear up how these "models" work regarding the reference number and why they either pass or fail validation...

The first two digits represent the base model number. You plug those into the “model” field, then dump the actual content into either the “charge reference” or “approval reference” field—you’ve got up to 22 characters to play with. Just make sure the data you actually put in there matches whatever model number you selected.

A "no model" setup lets you use one, two, or three pieces of data. This model is
what you use when you don't want the contents of the "reference number" field to be tied to a specific checksum.

Model 01 lets you use one, two, or three data points. Use this if the entire "reference number" string needs to be validated by a single checksum.

Model 02 also gives you the option of one, two, or three data points. But this one uses two separate checksums—one specifically for P2 and another for P3. P1 doesn't have its own checksum. If you only provide two data points, the system just assumes you filled out P1 and P2.

And so on...

Bottom line: the headache in all these reference numbers comes down to those calculated checksums. If the math doesn't add up, the order gets rejected. If you want to avoid the hassle, just set the model to '00' to trigger manual verification, or '99' if you don't even need a reference number in the first place.

Hey, does anyone know how to actually grab a payment confirmation from the IRS portal for citizens? Last month, right after I finished the transaction, there was this clear option to either print out a receipt or have them shoot it over via email or snail mail, but now... nothing. It’s just gone.

Payment History - Payment Display - click the transaction number to open the specific account you need.

Underneath the account, you'll find:
Payment confirmation
If you need a formal confirmation, the bank can mail it to your house, shoot it over to your email, or you can just download it through the online portal(PDF link).
The bank sends official confirmations from their verified address confirmations@chase.com. These are electronically generated, so they don't need a physical signature to be valid. The electronic record is stored securely at Chase. Note that requesting these via mail or email will trigger a fee based on Chase's standard service fee schedule.

Send my confirmation:
to my email (email)
via mail (your home address)

rapidskipper12 said:Payment History - Payment Display - click the transaction number to open the specific account you need.

Underneath the account, you'll find:
Payment confirmation
If you need a formal confirmation, the bank can mail it to your house, shoot it over to your email, or you can just download it through the online portal(PDF link).
The bank sends official confirmations from their verified address confirmations@chase.com. These are electronically generated, so they don't need a physical signature to be valid. The electronic record is stored securely at Chase. Note that requesting these via mail or email will trigger a fee based on Chase's standard service fee schedule.

Send my confirmation:
to my email (email)
via mail (your home address)

Thanks. Man, this was driving me crazy... It’s just not intuitive at all. If the number had been underlined, I would've known—I mean, anyone would have thought it was a clickable link, but since it wasn't, I just assumed it was just some basic numbering system for the list.

Also, looking back, I really should've actually sat down and read through the user manual before I started messing around with the software—and definitely before I came crawling here to ask questions in the first place...

Heh, all five of 'em! 😉

Can anyone help me out here? I'm a new user (business account), and I’ve already finished the USB key installation and registration process, but now I'm stuck. How do I actually trigger the token so I can enter my PIN and get appli1 to pop up?

I think it’s the same token... You have to activate it the first time you use it (look for the little triangle icon on the keypad). Enter the PIN the bank sent you, then it'll prompt you to create your own new PIN, which you'll have to confirm. Once that's done, you'll see "APPLI -" pop up—just hit 1 and it'll spit out your one-time passcode.

So I've got this little triangle icon sitting right there on my F9 key, but honestly, nothing happens when I hit it?? I'm totally lost here

What token are you holding?

So why would businesses need a token too? I was under the impression that having a card reader and a chip was all you needed—simple as that. 🤷

little black thumb drive

My mom’s security token finally gave up the ghost after four years of service... and of course, because my luck is just that great, I happen to be in Germany right now—meaning I have absolutely zero access to Chase exactly when I need it most. I actually took the time to call the Chase info line, only to be told that getting a replacement token requires showing up in person at a local branch back home. Apparently, if you aren't physically present in the States, there isn't a solution in sight.🤷

Yeah, their tokens make zero sense... If one dies, you’re stuck driving all the way to a Chase branch just to get a new one. With any other bank, you can actually just swap out the batteries yourself...

Okay, either I’ve totally lost my mind or something is seriously broken... because I can't see my transaction history anymore.

Help?

Even when I try to pull up the archives, nothing shows up, and searching for incoming transfers gives me zero results.

Edit—no matter what filters I pick, it only shows me stuff up until the end of August. Is this just a glitch?

I'm trying to transfer some cash via Zelle to an account at Chase, but I've hit a snag. The account number they gave me is only 9 digits long, but the app is insisting on 10. Anyone know how to fix this?...

Please ask the recipient for the correct number

The number is correct. It’s my account, and it’s nine digits long.