Posts by ruggedpanther2

Larry Ortiz5 said:Come on, send over a link for that power supply. When you're looking at PSUs, you really need to check how much juice it puts out on the 12V rail. Generally, more power means better performance, though obviously, it costs more. I’m not saying you need to drop $100 on a unit right now, but you should never be cheap when it comes to this part. It all depends on your build—why grab a 1000W unit if your PC only pulls 200W?

What kind of GPU are you planning to pick up?

Personally, I'd lean toward this one:

It's solid, reliable... and again, remember, the PSU protects every single component in your rig. You can't afford to cut corners here..

I was thinking about picking up this power supply:

As for the graphics card, I'm still torn;
I'd really prefer this one:

I'm also weighing whether to go with this one, but it feels a bit pricey. Plus, considering my CPU's power, maybe it's just overkill?

I'm looking to pick up a new graphics card
The specs for the card list this:
Minimum System Power requirement (W) - 500 W

I’m also planning on grabbing a new motherboard (Intel B760 chipset),
an Intel i5 processor
with a Processor Base Power of 125 W
and a Maximum Turbo Power of 181 W,
plus a couple of HDDs and an SSD.

Will my current power supply (Continuous Power w 650 Watts) be enough, or should I jump to a 750 W unit—even if it costs nearly twice as much?

Matthew Jones4 said:Thanks so much.

It looks like you'll need to fix that boot file.
https://neosmart.net/wiki/bootmgr-is...ebuild_the_BCD

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rapidorca6 said:Hey, I need some help here. Please.

So, I pulled a hard drive out of a dead desktop and grabbed one of those external enclosures to use it as an external drive—or at least to try and rescue some files. But when I plug it into my laptop, nothing shows up. Nothing.

It shows up in Disk Management, but it says it's Invalid. I could convert it to Microsoft, but that would wipe my data—and I'm definitely not doing that.
So, when I pull up that command prompt window and start typing stuff like diskpart and then list disk, it shows the drive is Online, but it’s still flagging it as Invalid. I guess.

It feels like Google barely offers any actual software to fix stuff anymore; most of what you find just wants your credit card immediately. I ended up downloading EaseUS Partition Master, but it’s pretty much useless since it says the disk is Offline and won't let me do anything—probably because it's just a trial version. It also shows up as Unlocated, claiming there's 1TB of free space available. I really hope that’s not actually true, because that drive is supposed to be completely full.

The drivers are updated for the drive, or so the computer says. I had Windows 10 installed on both my desktop and my laptop, and I even tried a different laptop running Windows 7, but no luck there either. I hear that Bing notification sound and the pop-up says it's ready to go, but nothing actually shows up.

Is there any way I can pull this off myself without some repair guy messing things up and wiping everything on that hard drive?

Thanks in advance!

If the drive itself and the enclosure are functioning properly, you shouldn't need diskpart, any partition tools, or new drivers.

Try plugging it into a completely different computer; it’s possible the drive has simply failed. Or, even better, try booting from a Linux live USB.

cosmicranger73 said:Isn't it enough that my phone number is already on file for password resets? I feel stuck here. Any advice?

Clearly, it isn't.
Your best bet is to try and trigger the security questions prompt and answer those.
https://support.google.com/accounts/.../7299973?hl=en

wiredcanyon39 said:Thanks in advance to anyone who might have a fix. Also...

Maybe try Command + P??

Frank Morales4 said:Hi everyone,
I'm using Gmail and my Inbox keeps receiving duplicate emails—every single message shows up twice. Is there any way to turn this off?

It looks like you're dealing with one primary email address and an alias tied to it. You'll need to find the setting to disable that duplication.

ruggeddriver5 said:Any recommendations for bumping my RAM up to 16 GB?

So, you're sitting on 8 GB of DDR3 right now. Why the sudden urge to upgrade? Where exactly are you hitting a wall with your memory usage?

Michelle Bennett5 said:Windows 10... man, it happens all the time. You go to turn it on and it starts prepping updates, or you try to shut it down and it’s busy applying them. But since the screen is just black, you have no clue what's actually happening. So, naturally, you think it's stuck, hit that power button a few times to force a restart, and—surprise, surprise—you end up bricking the whole thing.

Is there some setting buried somewhere that guarantees Windows 10 will, I don't know, light up the monitor first? Like, show something logical on the screen before it decides to go dark during a shutdown?

Just so the user knows Windows 10 Mobile isn't totally frozen and is actually doing its job.

When you boot up a standard PC, you see the motherboard logo and everything else first, right?
You must have tweaked something in your Windows settings or the BIOS. Honestly, the simplest fix is to just reset your BIOS to factory defaults or go ahead and reinstall Windows.

George Diaz47 said:Hey there,

I'm running into some trouble pairing my Bluetooth headphones with my PC.
I picked up an ASUS Bluetooth adapter, but every time I connect my headset to the computer, the audio starts cutting out after about 5 or 10 minutes. It gets all crackly and eventually becomes totally unintelligible.
The headphones work perfectly fine on both my laptop and my phone.

Is this an issue with the PC itself, or is the adapter at fault?

Try plugging the adapter into your laptop first and see how it performs. 😁

James Price83 said:Is there actually any distinction between those two terms? Thanks for clearing this up for me! 👍

Think of it this way: IT service providers manage information systems—things like banking platforms or hospital databases.
On the other hand, ISPs are the actual network operators, like AT&T, Comcast, or Verizon.🤷🤷

shadowotter5 said:1. How do I get into the BIOS? As soon as I turn on my computer, it jumps straight to the macOS login screen.

When you power up the laptop, try pressing and holding the Esc key. That should bring up the BIOS menu.
If that doesn't work, you're likely dealing with a UEFI BIOS.
Take a look at this link; there's a sequence of screenshots at the bottom that walks you through the whole process. You'll want to head into settings, then recovery...
https://superuser.com/questions/1016...-on-windows-10

restlessdrifter12 said:Does anyone know what the issue is or how to fix it?

Try following the steps on that site again. If that doesn't work, you're looking at two possibilities. Either the instructions aren't being followed to the letter, or that USB drive has officially kicked the bucket.👍

Justin Morales5 said:Hey everyone, I’ve been struggling with the IRS website for a little while now. I have my physical tax statement, but I need to get it updated to reflect my current status—specifically an address change. A clerk at the local IRS office mentioned that I could just request a new one through my online portal, but I’ve spent the entire afternoon searching for that option without any luck. All I can find are pages where I try to submit changes, but then I just get hit with an error message saying it isn't in the correct XML format... what should I do? It feels like I might just have to head down to the local IRS office in person to pick up a physical copy after all, right?

As an individual taxpayer, I don't think you have the ability to modify your personal details directly via the IRS portal.
As for downloading your tax info; just open up your file and there should be a "DOWNLOAD" button right there. Simple as that.

restlessdrifter12 said:That just doesn't work for me—it forces anyone who actually wants to watch it to have an Instagram or Facebook account installed first.
What I mean is, it should be accessible to absolutely anyone using a standard web browser on their computer.

Here’s the thing: you just record a video on your Mobile device, upload it via Wi-Fi to something like Google Drive, and then share the link with everyone. It’s honestly the simplest way to do it. Could it be any easier? 😁 😁

Jonathan Barrett said:I can't seem to wipe that 857 partition. Every time I right-click it, the only option that shows up is Help. There's no "delete volume" command available.

Why not try using the diskpart command? You could just wipe everything on that drive and then create a single new partition from scratch.

Jonathan Barrett said:It won't work. I've already given that a shot.

Did you actually click on the D drive first, then select "extend volume"? Looking at your screenshot, it doesn't look like it happened.
Before you try that, go ahead and delete that 857 MB partition—you don't need it cluttering things up.
Also, why is the disk set to dynamic? You really should switch it back to basic.
https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/win...o-a-basic-disk

Christian Cooper3 said:I've been following the news, and it looks like there aren't any new drivers coming out for Windows 10... so we're stuck with the old ones just as they are.
I had a feeling while I was reading your reply that it wasn't going to pan out—and, well, after giving your idea a shot, I can officially confirm my suspicion.
Anyway, thanks for the suggestion, though... really.

PS: I even tried messing around with my phone—since I can actually toggle the visibility settings there—but still, nothing works.

I suppose all we can do now is wait for some official word from Microsoft about an update that might actually fix this mess...🤦

You didn't mention which brand of Bluetooth hardware you're using, but honestly? I highly doubt a new driver or an update is coming to save the day.
Have you tried toggling the Bluetooth Adapter off and on several times through the Device Manager, then switching it back on via the Action Center? You really ought to see those last four programs pop up. That's how you know the connection is technically active. But that's exactly where the headache lies—it seems like Windows 10 simply doesn't know how to properly engage the Bluetooth functionality.

Another option might be to just pick up a dedicated Bluetooth USB adapter.

Christian Cooper3 said:Hey there, everyone

So, I recently picked up some Bluetooth 4.1 stereo headphones... they work pretty smoothly enough on my Android device, but trying to get them paired with Windows 10? Well, let's just say it hasn't been quite that simple lately...
First, let me cover the basics so we don't go in circles.
I've updated the Bluetooth drivers, tried restarting the Bluetooth software within the services menu, and even messed around with some third-party drivers—but nothing seems to stick (mostly just the usual suspects you find when you Google a specific issue 😛 ). It isn't just the headphones, either; I can't even get my phone to connect, though that's not my primary concern right now...
The thing is, everything worked perfectly fine back when I was running Windows 7 or Windows 8.
Anyone have any ideas...?

Thanks, everyone 👍

I’m dealing with the exact same situation. I have an older laptop originally designed for Windows 7, but I’m running Windows 10 on it now.
The issue really boils down to drivers—unfortunately, they don't exist, and there won't be any new ones coming.
Here is how I managed to fix it on my end.
First, go to your Action Center (located at the bottom right near the clock) and make sure you can toggle Bluetooth on and off. Turn it off if it's currently on.
Next, right-click the Start button (down in the bottom left corner) and select Device Manager. Once that window opens, expand the Bluetooth section.
This is what it looks like for me:
View on imgur
Now, turn the Bluetooth device back on via the Action Center (you'll see the icon by the clock), but notice that nothing changes in the Device Manager. Now, turn Bluetooth off again.
In the Device Manager, right-click on the Bluetooth Adapter and select disable. Wait a few seconds, then enable it again (the classic disable-enable trick).
Turn it back on in the Action Center, and it should look just like this:
View on imgur

After that, you should be able to pair your headphones or whatever else you need. You basically just need to ensure those last four items show up (the enumerator and the support driver—check the image).