Posts by Andrew Miller102

Honestly, it isn’t worth trying to repair or service this. You might as well just toss it straight into electronic waste or maybe try selling it for parts on $33. We're talking about physical damage to the LCD panel here—it's essentially the same as if you took a fist to a computer monitor. Your only real option is a full panel replacement, which ends up being prohibitively expensive, often costing nearly as much as a brand-new unit once you factor in the headache of the service fees.☕

crimsonridge44 said:Lately, I haven't been able to send emails using Mozilla Thunderbird, andI'm using a Gmail account, so every single time I try to send something, it just keeps asking me to "Enter your password" for xxxxxxx@gmail.com via smtp.gmail.com, and even after I type the password in, nothing changes.
Has anyone else run into this?

This strikes me as some kind of specific software bug within Mozilla Thunderbird.

It is entirely possible that something else on your system is interfering with the process, so you might want to try disabling Norton just to see if that clears things up, since it's quite plausible that the antivirus is causing issues out of nowhere. By default, most antivirus programs include a specialized module designed to scan standard mail applications on macOS.

If you are strictly using webmail services like Gmail, Yahoo, or Outlook, there really isn't any reason to keep that module active. There is no real point in letting that module run in the background and wasting your system resources for no reason.☕

Arthur Anderson10 said:Just wanted to let you know that the monitor gave up on me today, so I'm heading back to the store tomorrow to return it.
I managed to get my hands on some special patches, and they’ve actually brightened up certain sections of the screen.

You’re really getting worked up over a total dud of an example, and honestly, there isn't much you can do to make it any better than it already is.😁It’s hard to imagine a worse outcome, really—having a brand-new piece of hardware die on you almost the very same day you unboxed it.

I dealt with a similar headache when my vacuum cleaner gave up on me. It would have been a lot less frustrating if I hadn't bought that thing as a gift for my better half.😵

Samsung 32/1440p IPS is fine enough,😁 though its flaws are pretty well documented since I've run into a few myself. It’s just typical cheap cost-cutting, like how Samsung didn't even include a VESA mount option. On top of that, plenty of buyers have ended up with panels suffering from massive backlight bleed. Honestly, if that happens to you, just return the monitor, grab a new one, and pray you get a better unit this time around.

At the end of the day, you have to be realistic—this is an incredibly easy price to swallow for a 32/1440p monitor. You expect certain shortcomings when they cut corners this aggressively to hit a price point, and it shows in the final product. General Electric might offer a more polished chassis design, but at the end of the day, you're looking at the LCD panel, not the housing. It all comes down to what you want; either you take it or you won't be happy with a budget display at this level. If Samsung had opted for a higher quality Matte Anti-glare coating, it would have been much easier on the eyes. Generally speaking, an IPS panel looks significantly better when the screen is closer to being Glossy. It isn't quite a full Glossy screen, though; it's more of a very light Anti-glare layer similar to what you see on standard TV LCD panels.

https://pcmonitors.info/reviews/aoc-q3279vwfd8/

The Samsung 32/1440p MVA version features that same very subtle Anti-glare coating, but that specific model deals with serious image noise and artifacts due to having a poor MVA panel.☕

https://pcmonitors.info/reviews/aoc-q3279vwf/

Arthur Anderson10 said:you mentioned a "BenQ 32-inch QHD monitor with an AMVA+ LCD panel costs nearly $1000"

I’m actually looking for a 27-inch monitor, and FHD is perfectly fine for me. Do you have any recommendations that fit within that budget, say under $30?
This General Electric one is honestly just too washed out; I’d rather stick with my old Samsung than switch to something like this...
I've even considered ordering three or four monitors just to test them at home and return the ones I don't want, though that feels a bit shady...
The issue is that while you can check a TV in a store, monitors are rarely hooked up so you can actually see what you're buying, and looking at specs on paper doesn't tell you which one is actually superior...

Now I'm looking at these BenQ monitors, but even they have 27" models priced for an $433IPS monitor. Like the BenQ LED IPS monitor BL2780. Honestly, I have no idea which brand to trust right now. I thought that by buying an IPS monitor, I’d be done with backlight bleeding and finally get a picture that looked decent from different angles. But looking at this General Electric unit, if I move my head just five centimeters to the left, the right side of the screen turns gray😢—which is worse than my 15-year-old TFT—and I really didn't expect an IPS screen to react so drastically to a slight shift in perspective...
In the end, I feel like a demanding customer just because I expect today's monitors to produce a better image than a ten-year-old monitor that cost about the same back then. It wasn't exactly a beast when it was released, but still. Is technology actually regressing?

Regarding that video, the Samsung looks like it's stuck in shop mode... and the Samsung isn't much better. It looks like it's in some kind of Eco mode with muted contrast, dull colors, and low gamma...though it's still far more tolerable than the Samsung's picture. I'm convinced that either that Samsung is defective, poorly calibrated, or stuck in some sort of TURBOHDRSONIC mode.

Don't limit yourself to just or a minimum of 75Hz.😁 There aren't any issues with 60Hz, whether it's a TV or a PC monitor. The main thing is that the display itself is decent; otherwise, a 75Hz rating on a cheap General Electric unit doesn't mean much.

If you haven't tried it yet, grab a BenQ 27-inch 1080p/60Hz model with an AMVA+ LCD panel . That puts it in the VA class, and you probably already know what to expect there. Newer models are slightly improved compared to the very reliable older version I used for six years. From what I can see, Newegg still offers the widest selection of BenQ monitors by choice or design.EW2775ZH, whereas you'll find only one listing on a site like Google Shopping, and it's significantly more expensive. EW277HDR, which is the premium version, has virtually zero availability online. Its only major perk is an ambient light sensor for auto-adjusting the backlight.

https://www.newegg.com/benq-monitors...nitri-193/423/

https://www.google.com/shopping/benq...-16-9-24704531

In practice, cheaper IPS monitors tend to have significantly more issues with backlight bleeding. You also have to factor in specific IPS Glow, which becomes quite obvious during darker scenes. You should also mention VA Glow, though it is incomparably less noticeable.

Regarding the test below, everything mentioned about the technical specs and panel types applies to the recommended models as well. This particular model succeeded the BenQ I used for years. It lists AMVA+, meaning it's an improved variant of the AMVA panel. While the panel is natively 60Hz, you can usually bump the frequency up to at least 70Hz without trouble. So, my advice is to pick up a more affordable BenQ 27-inch model and test it out for a few days.

https://pcmonitors.info/reviews/benq-ew2750zl/

The specs are accurate enough, and you're looking at an AMVA panel manufactured by the Taiwanese firm AUO Optronics. Companies like Samsung, LG, Chime Inoolux, and TPV are the heavy hitters here, and AUO Optronics stands among the largest and most critical LCD panel producers for various clients today. Essentially, BenQ has become little more than a brand name—a marketing label owned by AUO Optronics.

https://www.benq.com/en-ap/about-benq/group.html

https://www.tftcentral.co.uk/article...chnologies.htm

Regarding that YouTube comparison between the Samsung and LG sets, they actually listed the specific settings used. Both models were running on the Vivid picture mode, and it’s pretty obvious that the LG looks overblown. To be blunt, using the Vivid or Sport modes on an LG TV is just pure nonsense. The colors are aggressively oversaturated, and the entire image quality is just terrible. I have no idea who would ever use those two modes or for what purpose; personally, I find them unwatchable. I was looking at the LG 43UM7600PLB recently, and I immediately hated the Vivid and Sport modes.🍿

Arthur Anderson10 said:Bought a General Electric 275E1S $500.

275E1S, 27-inch, 16:9, OLED panel, 2560x1440, 250 cd/m2, 1000:1, 178 °, 178 °, 4 ms, D-Sub, HDMI, DP, Flat, Black, Tilt stand, 75 Hz, Energy Star, NVIDIA G-Sync, Flicker-free, Night Shifte

Here’s my take. I am completely let down by this monitor. I’m taking it back tomorrow. Up until now, I was using a Samsung monitor.

This General Electric with its supposed OLED panel doesn't even come close to the color reproduction of my old Samsung. Even the viewing angles are a mess; you can see the image from the side, but the colors just wash out entirely. The moment you move away from the center, the saturation dies. Even when I sit about 16 inches away, there is this gray haze creeping in at the edges. In a pitch-black room, when displaying black, the backlight bleed is so bad you don't even need a lamp in the room because the screen provides enough light itself while "off."😢 It feels like it isn't even an OLED panel. Usually, you see these issues with TN screens. I tried messing with the settings, but raising the contrast from 50 to 60 or higher just turns the whole display blue. A disaster. Visually, the unit looks fine, but I expect a good picture from a monitor, not just a nice-looking stand.
Evopar, look at how it appears in photos versus how it actually looks in person.

Maybe I’m asking too much from an OLED panel?

Now I’m back on the hunt for a 27" monitor, up to $667 though I wouldn't mind spending a little less if the value is right.🙂

It won't be for gaming, but it needs to hit at least 75Hz. To me, color accuracy for static images and reading in a browser is more important than frame rates, though I might run a game occasionally—mostly strategy games.
Whether it is IPS VA or something else doesn't really matter to me, as long as the image is sharp and the colors are accurate. This one I mentioned above fails on both counts.

At work, I use an old Dell, and in my opinion, the picture quality is excellent. The colors might be a bit punchy, but I'd much rather have oversaturated colors than no color at all, which is what this General Electric offers.

Right now, I'm looking at a potential Dell 27" model, but this AOC has caught my eye too.

AOC 27G2U5/BK OLED gaming monitor

And I see there is a faster sibling available. AOC 27G2U/BK monitor though unless there is some other major difference besides the 144Hz—which isn't a huge deal for me—I'm not sure. If this one has better image quality in addition to the refresh rate, I'll happily shell out that extra $300.$133

Then there is also the AOC Q3279VWFD8 LED monitor, which is a strong contender, though it might be a bit too large for me (but if the picture is great, I can live with the size).

I also don't quite get how this Dell is so cheap for a 75Hz OLED. Dell SE2719HR OLED

The General Electric I'm returning is QHD, but honestly, I'd rather buy an FHD monitor with a great picture for the same price than a 2K one with washed-out colors.

If anyone has tried a Dell in this price range and has a recommendation, please let me know.

Cheap General Electric 27-inch 1440p monitor,😁You’re asking too much and being completely unrealistic about what you expect. Given where the General Electric brand stands today, I personally wouldn't recommend any of their TV or PC monitor hardware.

The AOC 32-inch QHD IPS has its flaws, but considering the size and resolution, it’s actually quite cheap. The main drawbacks—which vary depending on the specific unit—include some fairly significant backlight bleed. The Anti-glare coating is also a bit aggressive; I’ve looked at it myself, and various tests mention that exact issue. For years, I relied on a BenQ AMVA 27-inch FHD monitor. Specifically, the BenQ GW2760HS (which I picked up back in 2014 for $500), and I was incredibly satisfied with it. That BenQ didn't have any noticeable backlight bleed issues. It hasn't died on me either; it's six years old and doesn't have a single dead pixel. The BenQ will be heading to a clearance sale soon, and currently, I'm using a Samsung 4K/43/60hz TV as my PC monitor. The BenQ Anti-glare coating is significantly higher quality, or perhaps just noticeably gentler, which is confirmed by testing. Everything has its price, and the BenQ 32-inch QHD monitor (with an AMVA LCD panel) goes for nearly $1000.

The reason Dell is so inexpensive is simply because 27-inch FHD monitors are lower-end and inherently budget-friendly. On a cheap Dell IPS, you should expect viewing angles similar to what you'd find on a General Electric monitor. Regardless, whether it’s a basic IPS or a similar VA panel, the practical reality is that you aren't staring at a cramped TN panel, so viewing angles aren't really an issue here.

Regarding realistic colors, a PC monitor or a TV shouldn't have exaggerated or garish hues. Realistically, if the colors are off, you end up with garbage imagery—staring at orange skin tones or sickly green grass and similar nonsense.Just dial back the color saturation, or adjust the Color option using higher or lower settings. Any monitor, or honestly almost any standard Smart TV these days, offers such an option.

This is a TV comparison, but it’s largely irrelevant since modern TVs come equipped with all the tools needed for high-quality image calibration. Samsung uses a VA LCD panel, while Samsung has an IPS LCD panel. Based on the settings we discussed, the Samsung is garishly bright; just look at those nauseatingly orange skin tones. If you drop the saturation, that gaudy nuisance disappears instantly. While a VA LCD panel offers significantly higher contrast, that's practically negligible in real-world use. Ultimately, it is very easy to tune for normal, natural saturation. The panel technology itself isn't the deciding factor, whether it's VA, an IPS LCD panel, or even a completely different OLED panel. Regardless of what you're watching, logic dictates that colors should look as natural and realistic as possible.🍿

Just thought I’d liven this thread up with a few interesting little observations.It occurred to me to check whether the Department of Justice's YouTube channel offers any actually useful or preventative content for cyclists.From what I can see, the Department of Justice provides nothing but garbage—either useless mentions or incredibly poorly produced video compilations. I dug up an expectedly absurd example from 2013. Given when that video was posted, they likely still push the same advice or recommendations today. This video is clearly the work of the incompetent crew over at the Istria Department of Justice. Apparently, if you lock your bike with a standard cable, you can sleep soundly at night.



One more example to wrap things up, another video production centered around bike theft. Let's pretend this is the YouTube channel for a city like Ivanič, though that doesn't really matter. I'll skip straight to the most important part for us, so anyone interested can watch the full video from the start.The gentleman sharing these gems, I'm not entirely sure if he's a DOJ official himself, but he probably is. If he works for the Department of Justice, he's likely still in the same position today, working for a government agency.



- underneath the bottom bracket?Right, so a bike has a bottom bracket; now, whether it's better to have a front or rear drive is something I'm not quite sure about. Certain bikes probably only have a front drive or maybe a rear one, I guess.

- pressed into the chassis?Where exactly is this "chassis" coming from? A bike has a frame, not a chassis. Let's try not to confuse cars with bicycles, unless we want someone like Grom to run us over.

- the guy mentions a rear fork on a bike, but that's just the rear part of the bike frame. Honestly, maybe Google knows a bit more about rear forks than this.

https://www.google.com/search?q=stra...w=1582&bih=761

The video dates back to 2014, so once again, you don't know whether to laugh or cry—just toss it in the trash. We're out here trying to share advice, yet we don't even seem to grasp the most basic technical details regarding bicycles.🍿

William Miller20 said:@Casey Allen/">@@Casey Allen
They’ve mostly left me alone since my bikes were stolen, which I assume is just out of pity. 😁
There was already some friction before this, and if you decide to stick around this forum, you’re going to run into more of it. From here on out, people are going to be scrutinizing every single word you type, just waiting for an opening to jump on you or turn you into a laughingstock.

When it comes to my wrists, even a suspension fork wasn't enough to save them; I had to run extra soft setups on my trekking bikes just to take the edge off... 🙂

Listen, I've got something to say.😁 When you're young, you really don't need all that extra suspension and complex setups to get by. It’s only once the years start catching up with you that things change, and then you'll find yourself dealing with various physical issues depending on how your body decides to hold up.

When you look at most commuting setups, having a front suspension is honestly just overkill—it’s basically nothing more than extra weight you don't need. That said, there's no harm in it if someone really wants one on their Cross or Trekking bike, but it's purely a matter of preference.

The issue we have here in the States is that most people just ride their various mountain bikes around town or on paved streets. For them, anything even remotely "off-road" is just some light gravel or maybe a patch of packed dirt. You could honestly tackle that kind of terrain with a rigid fork and never worry about jarring your arms or wrecking your kidneys.

It’s the same old story at the end of the day: some aging crew riding rigid mountain bikes like they’re still invincible. I can tell the group is still kicking around, but honestly, without any suspension to soak up the impact, everything just falls apart from the constant vibration and all that reckless jumping.🙂

Watch out, because there’s a certain crowd out there acting completely reckless, intentionally slamming on nothing but their front brakes just to see how long they can balance on that front wheel.🙂

I’ve been spending some time looking over this footage, and honestly, if you want to understand where the industry is heading with high-end builds, you really need to watch this Marin. It isn't just about the specs on paper, though those are impressive enough; it’s about how the geometry actually translates to the trail when you're pushing hard. There is a certain level of refinement here that most brands are still struggling to grasp, and seeing it laid out like this makes a pretty undeniable case for why this specific setup works the way it does.

Jesse Ortiz4 said:Try zooming in on your monitor; you'll quickly see exactly what I mean about trying to view FHD content on a 27-inch screen.

I finally picked up a decent monitor, and it’s actually performing quite well. $567 If you're looking at IPS WQHD, you're essentially deciding on the sweet spot for modern displays.
The Philips 27" monitor just hit the market, and it’s looking like a solid option if you need something reliable for a professional setup. It packs a QHD resolution, which provides plenty of screen real estate for multitasking without feeling cramped, and since it comes with FHD support, it handles standard content perfectly fine too. The build quality feels sturdy enough for an office environment, and the color accuracy is decent for most day-to-day tasks. If you're looking to upgrade a workstation or just need a dependable display that won't break the bank, this one is worth keeping on your radar.

What exactly is missing from a 27-inch 1080p monitor?😁 Honestly, what kind of idiot looks for individual pixels when they’re using screen magnification anyway?

This has nothing to do with PC monitors, but the sheer scale of human stupidity—specifically when it comes to marketing—is truly boundless; take, for instance, the decision to cram a 1440p resolution onto a tiny 6.5-inch smartphone screen.

To put it simply, a 27-inch 1080p monitor works perfectly fine, and even a 32-inch 1080p setup—assuming you're using a TV as a display—is totally acceptable as long as you aren't squinting at the screen from twenty inches away looking for pixel defects. Unless you're doing professional photo editing or something where high resolution is actually a requirement, sticking with a 27-inch 1080p screen is as straightforward and uncomplicated as drinking a glass of water. We don't even need to talk about HTPC setups, where people hook a computer up to massive 1080p TVs and nobody seems to have an issue with it. My neighbor has one of those older Philips Ambilight 50/1080 p TVs hooked up to his PC, and he isn't even thinking about upgrading. He isn't interested in falling for all that marketing hype claiming you can't get anything done without 4K resolution.

I've been staring at a 27-inch 1080p monitor for years now, and honestly, I don't feel even the slightest urge to reach for a magnifying glass. Am I losing my mind, or is this actually normal?.🤔

And there you have it—the culprit behind it all.🙂 I honestly don't know where he gets off thinking he can actually pull this one, or what kind of logic leads someone to believe that using a 32-inch 1080p TV as a desktop monitor is anything other than a complete disaster.🍿

I’ve spent some time looking over this video, and honestly, it hits on several points that I find quite compelling, even if the presentation is a bit more polished than what we usually see in these types of discussions. There’s a certain level of nuance here regarding hardware performance that often gets lost in the noise of mainstream tech reviews, where everyone seems to be chasing the same headline numbers without actually considering how these components behave under sustained load in a real-world American gaming setup. It isn't just about peak benchmarks; it's about the stability and the thermal management of the system over a long session, which is something most people overlook until their frame rates start dipping mid-match. I think there’s a valid argument to be made for the specific configurations being discussed, provided you aren't someone who expects bleeding-edge performance out of entry-level gear. It’s a decent deep dive, though I’d still argue that a bit more scrutiny regarding long-term driver stability would have made it truly exceptional.

Quote: The New Guy

crimsonstag84 said:If I were in your shoes, I’d take that deal. 😛 My CNPS10X Perform has been doing the heavy lifting for over seven years now, and I originally picked it up during a sale at Best Buy for $40 btw. $83 😉

By the way, a few Gigabyte Z370 boards just popped up at a decent price. $250... Ryzen 3 The whole idea of combining parts is starting to lose its logic since it's really just about the core components. $50 It’s actually cheaper than picking up an Intel i3 8100 paired with a Gigabyte Z370.

The Ryzen 3—though honestly, the Intel i3 8100 at $130 is in that same boat—just doesn't make sense anymore, and it isn't even because you can snag a cheaper Intel motherboard. It’s actually due to... My brother's got a Ryzen 3 2200 g Veg 8 Processor. Which one's going to end up costing me $100?

Since when? $250 If you're looking for an Intel setup with a motherboard and CPU that won't let you overclock without breaking the bank, you're in a bit of a bind. Take this Asrock AM4 board, for instance; it handles any first-generation Ryzen R7 without breaking a sweat—the power delivery is identical to the higher-end Pro4 version—and it'll push them right up to those sweet spot speeds of 3.8GHz quite easily.

Check out this Asrock AM4 pro4 motherboard on Amazon.

Once the Ryzen 3 2200 g Veg 8 Processor finally hits the shelves in about two weeks, nobody with half a brain is going to touch the old Ryzen R3 1200 or the R3 1300X.🍿

If you're looking at the specs for the Ryzen 3 2200 g Veg 8 Processor, you'll see exactly what it offers for anyone trying to build a budget rig without a dedicated graphics card. It’s a straightforward little chip that handles the basics quite well if you aren't demanding high-end gaming performance right out of the gate.

Timothy Kim60 said:31.5" Samsung Odyssey - $220

Yeah, for that kind of money, getting a 32/1440p monitor is a solid move, assuming you aren't stuck with some low-tier, washed-out IPS LCD panel.😉

Timothy Kim60 said:I was actually considering picking it up, but I decided against it. I don't have, nor will I ever get, a GPU capable of driving that resolution for gaming, and since the pixel density ends up being similar to 1080p on a 23 or 24-inch screen, running 1080p on a 31.5-inch display would look pretty grainy to me plus I sit incredibly close—probably less than half a foot away. Honestly, it’s a lousy deal for the price anyway, especially since it's only 75Hz, though they might have mislisted it on the retailer's site.

As per usual, nothing is ever perfect, which means even this supposed "best buy" model isn't without flaws. If you aren't sitting closer than 20 inches, you certainly won't notice any graininess. That Samsung Odyssey is a great multimedia monitor, but it wasn't designed for precision Photoshop work, whether you consider the resolution or the fact that it uses a Panda MVA panel.

I tend to get bogged down in the technicalities, so I'll just drop the link below for those interested in reading up. To put it simply, there are two main issues here; the first one is quite serious, but the second one matters too, because you never really know who's actually behind the manufacturing process.🍿

- a glossy screen offers a few perks, but the drawbacks are significantly more annoying.

- then there's the Panda MVA panel; in this day and age, you really ought to know exactly who is responsible for baking these LCD panels.

https://www.techradar.com/discussion/monitor-threads

Gerald Moore5 said:Can you balance cycling and smoking?

Whether it’s just casual riding or something more competitive, what have you guys found?

I have to wonder why you're even bothering to start such a pointless thread.😁We all know exactly what nicotine and the extra junk in cigarettes do, and we know how much damage that sludge does to the entire body. Just admit you were bored and decided to kick off some nonsense topic because there was nothing better to do.

shadowlynx102 said:If you want my honest opinion, Get Data Back for NTFS is hands down the best tool out there for this kind of thing. Period.

There isn't even a point to this.😁 At the end of the day, all software designed for this kind of task operates on essentially the same principles.It’s all just marketing aimed at people who don't know any better, which explains why there's a massive market for those overpriced data recovery programs. Look, let’s be honest—under the hood, they’re all basically the same thing, and in reality, they mostly just perform identical tasks using nearly identical processes.

When it comes to free software for this kind of work, I tend to suggest Recuva as my go-to option. Recuva FreeIt’s an older version of the software, but that isn’t really the point; the main draw is that there aren't any arbitrary limits on how much data you can actually recover. For those dealing with the quirks of Windows 10—whether you're fighting with the OS acting up or just navigating its usual eccentricities—this tool holds its own. It won't cost you a dime, and it even includes an option to save your files directly to a CD or DVD. In my experience, the program is highly efficient, and I find the interface to be surprisingly clean and intuitive. Honestly, the well-known Recuva doesn't even come close to this; it’s hardly surprising given how much more versatile and feature-rich this version is.

Recuva is missing its most critical feature—that second link at the bottom—which is the ability to salvage data when Windows suddenly decides to lose its mind and demands a disk format out of nowhere. You see this happening all the time with external drives connected through various USB ports or interfaces. MiniTool handles that specific headache without any drama, provided the drive itself isn't physically broken or damaged. If we're just talking about some software glitch where Windows gets confused, MiniTool will sort it out easily, but if the hardware or the electronics are actually fried, you’re going to need the specialists over at Infolab.☕

granitemason55 said:About two weeks ago, I made a bit of a mess of things and accidentally deleted a folder filled with some incredibly precious photos. To make matters worse, I cleared them out of the Trash right after.

I didn't even realize what had happened until I went to check on that folder yesterday. Half the pictures were missing, and I foolishly assumed I’d just moved them into a subfolder instead of copying and pasting them like I usually do. Then, in my confusion, I ended up deleting that subfolder too.

After a frantic Google search for solutions, I stumbled upon and installed EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard. I tried running the full scan option—the one that scans the entire computer—and let it run overnight. Unfortunately, after eleven grueling hours, the progress was practically non-existent; it had barely managed to scan about a tenth of my hard drive before hitting a complete standstill.

In an attempt to be more efficient, I tried the quick and guided options, searching specifically by the folder name both with and without specific parameters, but the software just kept telling me "not found."

I then pivoted back to the full scanning method, this time attempting to use a keyword search, but the software gave me a "not found" error almost immediately at the start of the process.

I am honestly quite baffled by the whole situation. During that first marathon scan—which I eventually abandoned because it froze up and felt like it was taking forever—I did see that it had indexed over 71,000 files, ranging from 2014 all the way up to the present day. I took a little peek at the results, but my specific folder was nowhere to be seen.

Does anyone have any suggestions for me? Should I perhaps try a different piece of software? It feels incredibly strange that the program can find files from years ago, yet somehow swallowed this recently deleted folder into a bottomless abyss.

Unfortunately, it looks to me like those photos have been overwritten by new data. If that's the case, your chances of recovering anything intact or even usable are slim to none. If you had jumped on a recovery tool the very next day, or maybe within three days, things might have looked different, but after two weeks, it's a much tougher climb.🍿

Kimberly Gomez34 said:LC-120.

While that is certainly a solid choice,😁 there is a catch if you are looking for an easy installation. Mounting that specific cooler requires pulling the motherboard out of the case entirely. Let’s be honest, not everyone has the patience, the desire, or necessarily the steady hands required for that kind of surgery.

Consider another option, Alpenföhn Ben Nevis which installs as easily as a cracker, meaning it goes on just like a standard AMD stock cooler. It is a capable, efficient unit that will be more than sufficient for a Phenom II X4 processor. Its 12cm fan tops out at around 1600 RPM. That isn't particularly fast, so you won't deal with much noise even when the CPU is under a heavy load.

http://www.amazon.com/search.php?tp=0&q=ben+nevis

http://www.alpenfoehn.de/cpu-kuehler/bennevis#menu2

http://www.pcmag.com/article/Alpe...lusiv_-32223-3



It is worth emphasizing that for processors with a 125W TDP, you really need a CPU cooler equipped with a 12cm fan. Coolers using a 9cm fan generally aren't up to the task because, under load, those smaller fans have to spin at incredibly high speeds, which just creates a lot of noise.

There are exceptions, though; if you're running an AMD chip at 125W and just want to escape the racket, there's still a way out. If you aren't planning on overclocking and are happy staying at stock CPU frequencies, then the Arctic Alpine 64 Plus will do the job . The price point is quite reasonable $25, and most importantly, it stays quiet. Beyond that, it is a significantly better performer than that loud, old-school AMD stock cooler we all remember.

http://www.amazon.com/search.php?&q=...svePonude=true

https://www.arctic.com/us_en/alpine-64-plus.html

http://www.tomshardware.com/articlevie...id=2645&page=4



Better days are coming, as that noisy, subpar legacy AMD stock cooler is finally being phased out. With every new AMD zen CPU, a new AMD stock cooler called the Wraith is introduced.For certain older FX processors or newer AMD APU chips, this modern AMD stock CPU cooler is also included. Simply put, the Wraith is a much better stock cooler, and once again, the most important thing is that the noise effectively disappears.🍿

swiftridge72 said:The bluhell firewall is actually way more optimized for adblocking than ABP is, if you ask me 👍

It’s fine for the most part, though it does tend to eat up a bit of resources.😁 It still lets certain ads slip through on various sites that really shouldn't be getting through. But there’s a more significant issue worth highlighting: the complete lack of any meaningful customization options. You basically just get an icon and nothing else, so when you weigh the pros against the cons, I wouldn't exactly recommend it.

uBlock Origin It really is the superior choice, mostly because it’s significantly lighter on your CPU and RAM compared to what you get with AdBlock.

uBlock Origin gives you a massive pile of extra filter settings, and honestly, you really ought to just check every single one of those boxes. Malware Domains.🍿

hiddenpilot4 said:Thanks for the tip. I notice those two models pop up in the discussions quite a bit. Is there actually a meaningful difference between them? Also, how do they stack up against the BenQ 2470h, which seems to be sitting at a lower price point?

Dell uses a VA/ACM LCD panel, whereas the recommended Apple monitors utilize IPS LCD panels—though more specifically, Apple employs its own version of IPS technology known as NBA.

In real-world usage, the differences between ACM and IPS LCD panels are actually quite significant. I tend to favor the Dell UltraSharp, but you should probably check out the links below to see where the technical distinctions lie regarding ACM vs IPS.🍿

Michael Morgan5 said:Pure bliss. 👏
I really should have set this up ages ago.

In your face deformed feet !!! 🎉

You probably should have, but clearly nobody was around to give you any decent advice when you needed it.😁

Since we’re talking about ads, using an AdBlocker is pretty much mandatory these days, though even that isn't quite enough anymore. When it comes to modern advertising, the real headache is Malwaretising; check out the link below and you won't have to deal with it.🍿

darkowl72 said:It might be useful if you just need to hear notifications or maybe a Skype call, though a headset with a mic is always the better way to go for that.
But if your intention is actually listening to music—don't bother. The fundamental qualities that make decent speakers for music (not even high-end gear, just decent stuff) come down to the surface area
of the driver, the material used, and the internal volume of the enclosure; a cramped, thin plastic housing inside an all-in-one monitor simply doesn't meet those requirements.
Even if the sound is marginally better than a standard budget laptop, it still fails to hit the necessary marks for musical quality or volume.
In fact, some laptops will sound significantly better because they integrate premium audio solutions from brands like Bose, Bang & Olufsen, or other major names, which isn't the case here.

So, skip it. A basic set of Genius 2.0 or Logitech speakers will perform much better. If you're looking for something with enough punch to host a small room party,
you’ll likely have to shell out a bit more for something like this:

http://www.bestbuy.com/product_info.php?products_id=17106
http://www.amazon.com/product_info.php?products_id=8675

Alright, those are the slightly higher-powered, pricier models,😁 but I suspect our friend here is aiming for something much more budget-friendly. When we look at the entry-level options, those cheap plastic Logitech units aren't worth mentioning. Here are three very popular Genius 2.0 models that offer good sound, a nice aesthetic, and convenient front-facing connections.🍿

Two-way speakers, featuring one Bass/Midrange driver on the bottom and a tweeter on top.

http://www.walmart.com/search.php?q=Genius+HF+1250B



Two-way speakers, featuring one Bass/Midrange driver on the bottom and a tweeter on top.

https://www.amazon.com/speakers__910...0-14w__4975571



Three-way speakers, with a central tweeter and a Bass/Midrange driver both above and below.

https://www.target.com/speakers__910...0-20w__4975581

Anonymous said:"Holy Cow" would actually be a hilarious name for it, haha
Just surf the web with the Holy Cow

Anyway, I just scored a free router. Thanks 🙂

It’s easy enough to fry a router,😁but what happens when a lightning strike takes out much more expensive gear next time? You should really pick up a surge protector for the future; that’s just how you handle it if you want to avoid these headaches.🍿

nimblebadger12 said:Alright, so which cable should I grab to hook this up to my laptop? It’s got VGA and HDMI ports

You really should have mentioned you were planning to connect it to a laptop in your first post,😁 because most modern laptops pretty much only offer HDMI for video output anyway. Since that's the case, you just need to pick up a DVI to HDMI cable—about a meter should be plenty—and luckily those aren't expensive at all, $12so there shouldn't be any issues.🍿

http://www.amazon.com/s?k=hdmi+dvi+cable