Posts by wiredcanyon94

boldbadger20 said:I’m not entirely sure where this thread is headed, but since I figure there are plenty of tech-savvy people hanging out here, I thought I’d drop this question in this section.

From what I gather, every decent smartphone comes with GPS, and even if you turn it off, anyone with the right connections—think the NSA or similar agencies—could probably track your every move.

If my memory serves, back when Ronald Reagan was heading up the National Security Council, there were mandates to keep internet history data stored for five years.

Does that actually go that deep? Like, does someone at AT&T have access to see exactly WHAT I was Googling at 8:00 this morning?

If you’re actually on the intelligence community's radar, they’ve got way more than just your Google search history.
If you aren't interesting to them, they won't bother. There’s just too much raw data to track every single person.

dustyviper5 said:Hi there!

I’m planning to format my computer—it's currently running Windows 10 Pro—and I've decided to roll back to Windows 7. Could someone please walk me through how to save, or rather, back up my bookmarks from Chrome before I wipe everything, just so I can restore them once I'm back on 7? It’s a simple question, really, I just have no idea where to start... and my Chrome interface is set to American English.

Thanks in advance for the help!

Like this:
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=backup+chrome+bookmarks

Don't mention it!

Michael Jackson10 said:They’ve got all sorts of gear out there, like stuff with LSA terminals, but most of it is overpriced as hell—honestly, you're better off just buying a decent pair of crimpers than wasting money on those kits.
That said, I wouldn't go flying blindly into a project like this, especially for situations like:
Junction box

dakle toolless, a sealed box (though I’d probably hit it with some silicone or hot glue just to be safe), isn't really breaking the bank...
But everyone seems to be overlooking one massive detail: is that cable running between two houses? If so, I’m assuming it was suspended in the air, not just tossed on the ground. Standard network cable isn't designed to support its own weight over a distance. The whole point of these connectors is to maintain a standard Ethernet connection, not to act as a structural support for something that was never meant to hang unsupported over a long span.
So, what about a messenger wire or something similar??

True enough.
And if I can jump in regarding signal loss: that UTP lan cable consists of eight wires, twisted into four pairs. No matter how you tackle the splice, the goal is to untwist those pairs as little as possible. The more you mess with the twists, the worse your signal degradation gets.
Anyone who actually does this for a living knows that, but if someone is tackling this as a DIY project, it's worth mentioning.

Zachary Peterson6 said:So I've got this Ethernet cable where one end is hardwired inside my house... the other end runs to a neighbor's place and is just sitting there, but it got severed during some construction work... how do I splice those two ends back together?

The guys already gave you the rundown on connectors.
But honestly, thinking about it now—you said it was cut. If that break happened outside the house, you’re going to need serious insulation for that connection. Those standard connectors aren't waterproof.
I'm sure you've realized that by now, but figured it was worth mentioning.

Zachary Peterson6 said:So, I've got this Ethernet cable where one end is hardwired inside my house... the other end runs to the neighbor's place and it's just sitting there, but it got severed during some construction work... how do I patch these two ends back together?

Use something like this:
https://www.google.be/search?q=utp+c...lnOELrtxRlM%3A

If speed is your main concern, just know you're going to take a hit. How much? Hard to say. It really depends on how long that run is.

Edit:
There's no way to predict the drop without seeing it first. Obviously, you can just test it once you've got the connection back up. 🙂

William Hayes12 said:It's an HP laptop.
Out of nowhere, a few letters and numbers just stopped working: e, t, u, i, o, plus the 8 and 5 on the right side. Everything else seems fine.
To make matters worse, my laptop keeps spamming asterisks like crazy without me even touching anything.
Anyone have any clue what's going on or how I can fix this?

Any chance you spilled something on it? Water, soda, coffee, beer...

Justin Harris75 said:We can consider this thread closed. Turns out my router was just acting up.

Thanks for the heads-up.

Justin Harris75 said:Yeah. At first, I was just getting "Request timed out." But then this popped up:
"Jay-Z: Sent=4, Received=0, Lost=4 (100% loss)

What’s your computer's IP address?
Are you running on DHCP, or did you set it manually?

If your router is sitting at 192.168.5.1, your machine needs to be on that same subnet—meaning it should have a 192.168.5.x address with a 255.255.255.0 mask.
Obviously, your specific address can't be the exact same as the router's. (Which, let's be real, it probably isn't.)

Also, your default gateway has to point back to the router at 192.168.5.1.

Eric Ortiz4 said:I’m trying to fire off an email to this one specific address, but I just keep getting hit with this error message:

Gmail: Delivery to the following recipient failed permanently:

recipient@bankofamerica.com

Technical details of permanent failure:
Google tried to deliver your message, but it was rejected by the server for the recipient domain bankofamerica.com by mx01.bankofamerica.com. [193.23.182.140].

YAHOO: Sorry, we were unable to deliver your message to the following address.

<recipient@bankofamerica.com>:
Remote host said:
550 #5.1.0 Address rejected.
[RCPT_TO]

Does anyone actually know why this thing won't go through?

You probably just typed the address wrong.

Peter Flores77 said:First off, it would be a huge help if you could let us know which router model you're actually using.
Secondly, keep in mind that besides just opening the ports in your router settings, you'll also need to make sure they're cleared through your firewall.

Didn't he mention a "Boeing 747 router" right above?

mellowwolf16 said:🙂
this is awful. so my only shot is my university email. they have to fix that one for me. but if I can't use it to recover the Gmail, am I just done with the whole account? 🙂
is it really like that?🤦

I really hope it works that way.
Because if it doesn't, hacking into someone's account would be way too easy.

restlessdrifter4 said:No one has jumped in yet, but honestly, it doesn't matter—I managed to get it sorted out on my own. 🙂
It turns out I just needed to boot Outlook in Safe Mode using this command: "outlook.exe /safe" 🙂

I guess everyone was just offline during those two hours while you were troubleshooting.
Anyway, thanks for circling back to let us know what actually worked.
I don't personally use Outlook, but thanks on behalf of the users out there. This might save someone else some headache. 🙂

Richard Ruiz9 said:https://www.flickr.com/photos/135737...8/23789298153/ So, here it is. My goal is basically to get my desktop in my room onto the LAN. I don't necessarily need the laptop to be hardwired—Wi-Fi works fine for that—but I’d love to have it on a wired connection without having to move the damn thing, if you catch my drift.

If you want it wired instead of wireless, just run a cable and plug it in. Simple as that.
And yeah, you asked about Cat cables. A standard Cat5e will do the job just fine for you.

Richard Ruiz9 said:Hey everyone, I'm not sure if there's already a thread for this, so feel free to move this if I'm double-posting.
I’m trying to wire up my PC via LAN, but I need about 25-30 feet of cable. The issue is I don't want to run a wire all the way down the hallway. My phone setup is out in the hall and the computer is in the room. Is there any way to get both the PC and the phone connected to the modem at the same time without moving everything around? Like, can I plug the PC into a separate modem or something, or am I stuck dragging a cable through the whole house? Also, I'm totally lost on the UTP stuff—what does "Cat" actually mean? Which specific Cat rating should I be looking for? If anyone has dealt with this before, please let me know. Thanks!

Draw me a quick sketch of how your gear is set up right now, and then a second one showing where you want to move things. Your description is a bit vague on what goes where.

Or just pay someone to handle the setup for you.

silvertiger19 said:Hi everyone! I could really use some urgent help here 🙂
So, here is the situation: I decided to run a backup using Clonezilla because I was planning to install Ubuntu alongside my existing setup. The backup itself seemed to complete without any issues, but now I’ve hit a major snag—I can't boot into Windows at all. I keep getting an error message saying the repair failed, and no matter what I try—whether it's a system reset or other troubleshooting steps—nothing seems to work. Does anyone know how I can get back into Windows? Should I be looking into drivers? If so, where would those be located, and which specific ones should I be selecting? This was my first time diving into something like this, and now I feel completely stuck. For context, I am running Windows 8.

Thanks so much! 🕺

Honestly, your best bet is just handing it off to someone who knows how to fix it.

David White8, if you don't care about your data, feel free to keep rambling on about that half-broken drive. But if you actually value your files, just buy a new, healthy disk and move everything over while you still can.

Brandon Edwards36 said:When I started recording, the TV asked me to format my USB, so I just did it. It started the recording process, but then I shut the TV off. When I went to check the drive the next morning, the TV claimed it was empty. So, same TV, same USB, absolutely nothing to show for it.

Honestly, I'm a bit hesitant to run any software that isn't fully polished yet. I don't want to end up breaking something.

Wait, let me get this straight. You cut the power on a device while it was mid-recording and then acted surprised when there wasn't a file there?

Look, you can claim your network is Gigabit all you want, but if your transfer speeds are topping out at 100 Mbps, then somewhere in that chain, there’s a 100 Mbps bottleneck. Period.

And if you're absolutely positive that every single piece of hardware in the line supports Gigabit speeds, then one of your end devices just isn't beefy enough to handle that much data throughput.

What’s actually going on with your setup? This should be pretty obvious if you look closely enough.

Do some troubleshooting. Start unplugging—or plugging in—components one by one until you find the bottleneck. My advice? Start simple: bypass everything and plug the two end devices directly together with a single cable.

George Sanders37 said:No matter how you slice it, you’re going to need a professional if you want any actual results. You have to figure out what's actually wrong with the drive first—it might just be a software issue.

If those files actually matter to you, don't let some random guy poke around in your hard drive. He'll just end up saying "my bad, sorry" right when your data is gone for good.

The point of my underlining there is to suggest that the data might have been recoverable before some amateur started messing with it.
Once they start tinkering, you aren't just looking at them failing; you're looking at them potentially nuking the data so badly that even a pro can't touch it.

That's essentially what I was getting at with the underlined part in George Sanders37's post.

Aaron Chavez8 said:Can someone who actually knows their way around the TrakAxPC photo and audio mixing software help me out? I downloaded the program and got it installed, but every time I try to launch it, it just sits there demanding an activation code. How on earth am I supposed to get my hands on that code?

It’s pretty straightforward.
You buy it, you get it.