Kate Martin9 said:Forgive me for stepping out of the main thread, but I’m honestly at a loss as to where else to ask. Does anyone know how to set up my PayPal so I can actually receive funds via email? For instance, I want a friend to be able to transfer $33 from her account to mine.
I tried giving her my email address so she could send it over, but she's telling me it won't work because I haven't enabled that specific option. How on earth do I go about activating that?
Please help—this is becoming quite urgent.
I'm not entirely sure if you can even receive funds that way since it's a Visa Prepaid Gift Card. Maybe it might be easier to just open a standard checking account at somewhere like JPMorgan Chase instead.
So, first off, I’m guessing that card you're using is linked to one of your checking or savings accounts at your bank, right? If you aren't getting a direct deposit there or if you're sitting on an overdraft, you might just need to toss some cash into the account first so you actually have funds to spend.
Secondly, you can just head over to paypal.com and set up an account there. Once you've signed up and logged back in, you'll see an option to add a credit card, which is where you'll plug in your card details. I guess you should probably make sure there's at least $10 or $20 available on it, otherwise they might not let you add it, though I suppose $17 it really just depends on how your bank handles things. They'll likely run a tiny charge of maybe $2 or $3 just to verify it, but don't worry, they'll give that right back to you later. After that, you'll just need to wait about 4 or 5 days, then you can check your transaction history through your online banking app—you'll see a PayPal transaction with a little code, and once you type that code into PayPal, your card should be all set for shopping.
I honestly don't know, everything feels a bit weird about it all to me. This is actually my first year on this specific policy where I'm paying the full amount, and then when it comes time for the first renewal next year, it shows a 10% discount, which I guess lines up pretty well with what you were saying. The thing is, I used to have a completely different policy for my other car over at GEICO, and it showed a 50% no-claims bonus, which was super easy to verify on the GEICO website just by plugging in the old policy number and the VIN from that first car. But anyway, when I went to set up a brand new policy for my new car through GEICO, they couldn't find anything under my name at all, which is just really strange considering it had been about 18 months since the accident with the first vehicle.
I guess if you’re just planning on using that card for spending rather than pulling money from PayPal, then maybe a standard checking account at JPMorgan Chase would be your best bet. Since there aren't any monthly maintenance fees, and if the account is actually in someone else's name and you're just transferring money to yourself to spend, you probably won't have to worry about filing any extra tax returns every year, unless we're talking about some seriously massive amounts of cash.
When you go to open the account, you might want to just mention that you'd prefer an Intel card instead of a physical plastic one.
redcrane22 said:Well, sure, you can try playing dumb, but when things get audited, every single underwriter is going to check the math. If they find out, you're stuck paying the difference. Even if they don't catch it via the standard tables, they'll track it down through the VIN in the DMV database, much like how Hanes would flag an error in their records.
I guess I'm not entirely sure, since I was driving a different car because my old one was totaled, so maybe the chassis could play a part in things. But during the inspection, they kept asking for my old policy number or at least the old license plate, and since I didn't give them any info, they couldn't find any kind of no-claims discount or bonus.
That happened back in the US, whereas at Triglav they didn't really ask or check anything at all; they just set up a new policy without any discounts and called it a day. And now, looking at that policy online ten months later, it shows I get a 10% discount for renewing, while with the US provider, it seems like it just goes up by 5% every year over a nine-year period.
Tyler Price7 said:Yeah, it's a straight drop of 3 levels, which sucks. But hey, I guess the good news is that the malus expires after 3 years. So if you pick up a new car after 3 years, you start back at 100% instead of being stuck at 150%.
In my case, it had been barely a year since my accident and about six months since my policy expired, so I went ahead and started over at the standard 100% rate with a different insurance company. The surcharge was still technically there at 150%, but I guess they didn't catch it because I didn't mention my old policy number or my previous license plate. Maybe just play dumb and tell them you don't have any of your old info anymore if you want to start from scratch.
Doing 100 pushups every single day? All in one go without stopping? Hey man, maybe slow down just a little bit, or at least take a break once or twice a week if you can. It might be a bit much for your age, but I guess even if you dial back the intensity a little, you'll probably end up looking like Rambo before you even hit 18.😁
Maybe check out some of those fitness PDFs online; I think there's some pretty cool stuff in there. And if you're feeling weak, it's probably just because you're running low on energy or your muscles are getting a bit overworked, nothing more than that. Since you're still growing, you really need to make sure you're eating plenty of good, high-quality food. If you aren't getting enough sleep, that’s going to affect your muscle growth too, so you should probably aim for at least 10 hours a night—maybe even more since you're young. Muscles mostly grow while you're sleeping anyway.
I was just wondering if anyone knows if you can find lutein supplements available here in the States? I haven't really noticed any at my local CVS or Walgreens lately, though I might have just missed them.
neontinker5 said:So, I finally bit the bullet and picked up the 4.5lb tub of MVP PRO WHEY... I guess we'll just have to see if it actually works out, though I suppose that really depends on how my workouts and my diet go too. It ended up costing me about $100, so I might as well just dive in and see what happens! 🙂
I guess you can find just as much Optimum whey for the same price if you order through a local distributor, or maybe even less if you look around in Canada... I've been taking it for about a month now, and I guess I'm pretty happy with how things are going. I mean, regardless of which one you decide to go with, I guess it's not like any of them are some kind of magic powder that's going to work miracles, maybe.
I guess I occasionally mix some tuna into my meatless meals for dinner, though probably not every single night since I usually just supplement my protein intake with some whey. By the way, when it comes to fish, I’m pretty fond of cod or sardines; I feel like the seafood we get here in the States is great, and fish is such a healthy choice because of that Omega-3 fish oil, plus you can find plenty of other protein sources everywhere, like eggs, chicken, or nuts and everything.
urbanharbor95 said:The person who actually owns the car is the one who's going to take the malus, regardless.
It'll definitely catch up to you. When you finally go to register a "new" car in your own name, you'll probably need to provide the paperwork from your old policy if you're trying to claim any prior bonus you've earned. And that old policy will clearly show the claim was filed—you can actually check that yourself using the link I posted earlier.
Thanks for letting me know. I actually had a 0% bonus on my old car, and now I’m sitting at a 50% malus on this current policy, so I guess I'm not really worried about catching a bonus even if one were available. 🙂 What I was mostly wondering about was whether they could just take that malus from my former policy and the old vehicle and slap it onto my new policy just because my name and surname match up.
@Mark Booth7, I suppose if you just set up the policy in your name for your new car, they might not be able to link you back to the old one, unless maybe the police report specifically listed you as the driver? I wonder if the insurance company even has access to those kinds of documents. I'm thinking they usually just pin it on whoever the policy is registered to, regardless of who was actually behind the wheel.
Just wanted to jump in here and say hi, For about two weeks now, I’ve been having two scoops of Optimum Whey daily on top of hitting my protein goals through regular meals—you know, things like tuna, chicken, and stuff like that. Ever since I started, I’ve been falling asleep pretty consistently around 11 PM, and then I just seem to wake up naturally around 6 or 7 in the morning without even needing an alarm. Before this, I used to spend three or four nights in a row wide awake, unable to drift off because I felt so restless and jittery, and then when it was time for work in the morning, I'd be in such a fog that if I did crash, I wouldn't wake up until 4 PM. I'm not entirely sure what else is in this whey besides the protein itself, though the label does mention amino acids, but it feels like my body was probably just missing something. I've tried taking Omega-3, iron, zinc, and various minerals before, but nothing ever seemed to work quite as fast as this has. There must be something special about the formula, I guess.😁 Best,
I guess I'm wondering why he would get a premium increase if he wrecked a car that was actually insured under his dad's name?😕 How could he even get a surcharge if he hasn't even had an insurance policy in his own name yet?
On another note, I might have a question myself, since I was in an accident with my old car—which was registered to me—but that was way back in September 2010. Now I've been driving this other car for about a year, though it's still on the previous owner's policy which is expiring soon. I'm curious how those no-claims discounts work, and whether it would affect me at all, since it’s a completely different vehicle and it’s been over a year now.
I guess this might be a bit dramatic, but honestly, this is probably one of the worst things I've ever laid eyes on—it's just kind of ugly and super frustrating to look at.. Maybe it would be better to just revert back to the old layout, or honestly, you might as well just shut down the whole forum because I don't think many people are going to stick around if it looks like this. I mean, what happened to those ads that used to be on the right side? Now they aren't even on the left or the right anymore... it's such a mess! 👎👎👎👎👎👎👎
I mean, what’s really the point of having a checking account if there hasn't been any activity for six months? Is the goal just to collect more chip cards for a collection, I guess? If someone goes six months without using the account and then finally makes one single deposit, does that mean they get hit with another fee for the next six months or something like that? I'm a little confused about how that works, maybe. 🤷
I mean, what can you do? Maybe we should all just go unbanked and ask them to hand over our cash in envelopes like they used to twenty years ago! The only bank I know that’s still charging transaction fees is Goldman Sachs (correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think any others are doing it), though I guess even they won't be able to get away with it for much longer; just like how they hiked up those online banking fees, this will probably happen too, it's just a matter of time, I suppose.
I guess if you’re already using a condom, there really isn't much to worry about most of the time, though I suppose even before ejaculation, there might be a tiny bit of pre-cum containing a few sperm that could technically lead to pregnancy if they make it where they need to go.🙂 So, things like having sex earlier or showering afterward probably don't matter much since you're essentially releasing that fluid again during penetration anyway.
You can actually kind of notice this yourself just by masturbating, because right before you finish, you can feel that fluid appearing.😁
If everyone is feeling a bit panicked, maybe it would be best if she just takes a pregnancy test so you guys can finally be sure, because otherwise, everything else is just guesswork. It's all just maybes and ifs at this point...
I guess I just want to see if they try to hit me with another fee again, just so I can throw it right back in their face as my reason for closing the account.🙂 I know it sounds a bit silly, but I really don't feel like dying for another $3.00 they're just going to snatch away from me anyway.
Steven Reed said:Let’s try some basic logic here—if they charge a monthly service fee, that transaction itself counts as account activity. So, how exactly can you claim there’s been zero movement in the last six months? It’s a circular impossibility. I’m sticking to my guns—Zabka charges a standard monthly fee for checking accounts $3.00 just like it says right on their website. If anyone actually has proof to the contrary, by all means, 😍 post it here.
I'm waiting until December since I finally had some activity, but I might just let the whole thing about finding proof slide 😁, and then I'll probably just go ahead and close the account because, say, at JPMorgan Chase, it’s still free if you don't have any activity on the account. By the way, I even sent an email to Wells Fargo, and they're charging fees too, even when nothing is happening.